The Road to Ayutthaya

It’s not as if I have an aversion to all things contemporary. I’m in fact a keep observer of contemporary life and living wherever. But the worm of archaeology wriggles in me restlessly, and prods me to dig deeper into the roots of just about everything. And that’s what I wanted to do after my sojourns into the palaces and alleyways of 200 year old Bangkok. I was itching to travel and explore areas of Thai ancient history.





With an intriguing name like Ayutthaya, the old capital of Thai Kingdom was top on my list. Actually, unlike the lesser known Sukhothai, the first-ever city-sate of Siam nestled in the central plains of Thailand, Ayutthaya is so much `in-your-face’ in Bangkok. It’s basically because of the proximity to the city. It is in fact an easy day trip to the ancient capital. Sukhothai on the other hand is a good 6 hours road trip. Paintings of the Ayutthaya ruins amidst overgrown roots of ficus trees, on fabric and on paper are common souvenirs in Bangkok. But when compared to the millions that throng the amazingly beautiful beaches and islands of Thailand, these UNESCO World Heritage historical parks don’t attract many visitors. I was happy I visited these sites. But honestly the well maintained ruins at Ayutthaya with its manicured lawns and gardens come no where close to the rustic charm of Angkor Wat. But as they say, historical events and monuments should never be compared; both are unique in its respective time and space.





Both these historical parks are well equipped with museums, information centres, guides, rest rooms, and everything that is needed to update and refresh ones body, mind and soul. For that matter, traveling anywhere in Thailand is a tourists delight. It’s actually difficult to `rough-it-out’ in Thailand. You really have to be in the deep interiors of the northern highlands to experience true wilderness. It would seem that the smooth 6 lane highways with refreshment centres at every few kilometers, complete with restaurants, wash rooms and kids play area, runs into all corners of Thailand. Unlike in India, where a cross country National Highway road trip actually weaves through the cultural fabric and the associated hassles of the nation, in Thailand its just smooth roads and convenience kiosks at regular intervals. It is indeed a little disappointing for people looking out for some serious exploration into ethnic life and living in Thailand, without wandering into the deeper darker zones.







Besides, trips and treks would seem to be tailor made for individual tourists in this prime holiday country. One can choose to tramp it out or live royally at the classiest of hotels. As always, I chose the `middle path’; although adequately adventurous, I rarely take risks. I opted to cruise it to Ayutthaya, and it was well worth it. From the jetty at Bangkok, the cruise snakes up the Chao Phraya to the ruins. The cruise starts early morning, complete with welcome drink, delicious breakfast, Thai traditional music and dance performances and a sumptuous lunch spread ready to be devoured on the return journey in the afternoon.





Although Sukhothai is considered as the first city-sate of Thailand, it was the Kingdom at Ayutthaya in the 14th century that unified the farming and trading communities that existed along the Upper Chao Phraya Valley. Prior to this unification, Sukhothai was an emerging city-state under the control of Khmer Empire, consisting mainly of people from the Mon ethnic group. A little needs to be said about the history prior to the Sukhothai period in Thailand. And this refers to the Dwaravati period, which included a conglomeration of small and big settlements along both banks of the Upper Chao Phraya valley during the 6th – 13th Century. Like all legendary beginnings the first king of Dwaravati, is said to have established the first city, in the 5th century AD. But what is certain is that by the 10th Century most of these settlements came under the dominance of the Khmer Empire and was controlled from the ancient city of Lavo, identified with modern Lopburi town on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya. The landmark temple of this period, Prang Sam Yot in Lopburi, has striking resemblance to the temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The three Prangs or Gopuras are dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishu, and Shiva.





The Khmer dominance of the Chao Phraya valley was however challenged in the 1239 by the Tai governor of Sukhothai, and declared independence. Very soon Sukhothai grew under the able leadership of King Ramkhamhaeng, details of who are noted from the stone stele inscriptions now housed in the National Museum at Bangkok. There is much debate on the historical details of the origins of Sukhothai among historians. But Thai’s like to frame Sukhothai as their first city-sate of their nation and King Ramkhamhaeng as the nation builder of Thailand. It was during the 13th century that a gradual migration of the Tai people into the Upper Chao Phraya flood plains took place. However Sukhothai soon lost to the growing power and influence of Ayutthaya Kingdom in the South.





Ayutthaya flourished as a world renowned trading centre during the succeeding few centuries. But by the 18th Century, the kingdom began to disintegrate and provincial states began asserting their independence. Petty rivalries weakened the kingdom further. And to make matters worse, Ayutthaya got involved in the war between the Mon rulers and the Burmese along the southern border. The Kingdom supported the Mons, but lost the battle. The victorious Burmese army didn’t stop with the Mons. They charged ahead and invaded Ayutthaya and destroyed the city in 1767 AD. The Thai capital moved further south near Bangkok where it sustained and flourished with wise diplomatic ties with neighboring nations and beyond.





Well, I was not stuck with history alone. Like all tourists, I too did my round of islands and beaches. In fact, Thailand has a way of making you feel at home. Inspite of the obvious racial differences, its the common link in the Oriental threads of traditions, languages, food habits, leisure, and the arts , especially among the South-East Asians that comes to the forefront and envelops you. Maybe that’s why I survived my years in this foreign land.