Myanmar - A Forgotten Neighbourhood
binatho@gmail.com
Why Myanmar? I was asked by several friends. Why not a holiday to some other exciting place with a lot more to see and do? And so I searched for reasons for my interest in Myanmar. Was it just the physical proximity of a neighbouring country I didn’t know at all, or the fascination Amitav Ghosh’s book `The Glass Palace’ had generated in me. Well, it was actually a curious mix of the above two.
Honestly, I find the name Myanmar emotionally distancing. Its `Burma’ we are used to. The picture of the yellow shell logo of `Burmah-Shell’ oil companies, instantly comes to my mind. Growing up in a family involved in the business of servicing of trucks and tankers, I could identify that logo on oil tankers even before I could read. Unfortunately, the many decades of political turbulence has kept investors and visitors out of Myanmar. There is nothing rich or glamorous about this country. It’s more like stepping into the house of an old and poor relative, whose courtyard is filled with a confused array of things forgotten and lost. In fact, the only thing about Myanmar that blinks in peoples mind today is the face of Aung San Suu Kyi, the Nobel laureate for Peace, undergoing house arrest since 1989 in her own country.
Besides fascinating references to the regions in the 14th century accounts of Marco Polo and other travelers, British Raj prodigies like George Orwell and Rudyard Kipling has also left interesting accounts and references of their life and times in Myanmar. Yes, I was excited about exploring this country. I could picture myself sailing across the Irrawaddy, the life line of Myanmar even before I set off.
Although I was headed to the countries centre and cultural heart, which is Mandalay, I had two important visits in Yangon. First, a visit to the golden landmark of Myanmar - the Swedagon Pagoda also known as the Golden Pagoda. The initial glimpse of its golden spire brings images of the 19th century litho prints. However, now it’s minus the wild vegetation around its vast expanse. Except the awesome glitter of the Pagoda, the entire place is a maze of old and new, small and big freshly whitewashed shrines on a newly marbled floor. Originally founded and built in the 6th or 7th century AD by the Mon rulers, this monument and its surrounds has seen a series of additions and renovations, besides withstanding numerous earthquakes. The monument is like a zedi or stupa park, bustling with devotees, offering prayers, eating lunch or taking a siesta. I actually wanted to escape the heat, the heady smells of incense and Burmese lunch. And stop hopping from one marble tile to the other to save my feet from getting roasted. Unfortunately the original entrance to the Pagoda is crowded with offertory and souvenir shops, making it impossible to appreciate anything.
Although most of Myanmar’s past history is no more than sketches of regional feuds by different ethnic groups, its Myanmar’s recent 200 years of history that has shaped the nations glory and doom. It was the Pyu’s and Mon’s of Tibeto-Burman and Eastern-Indian origin respectively who were responsible for the first states in Myanmar since the 6th century AD onwards. The Bamar or the Burmans are said to have come down the Eastern Himalayas in 8th cent AD and occupied Central Myanmar and sustained it as the cultural capital if not the political capital. The vast temple complexes of Pagan dating from the 9th -12th century are remnants of a Golden Period or the `Pagan Era’ in Burmese history. But once again conflict among native groups weakened the political system and the invasion of Kublai Khan’s army in 1287 AD ended the `Golden Era’ completely. Chaos continued among rulers of different ethnic groups. Finally in 1752 the Mon took complete charge of regions around Mandalay and even defeated the neighbouring Thai kingdom. This victory motivated them to take on the British forces in the west. Well, their confidence just proved too wrong.
The British began occupying Myanmar from the 1820’s till it officially became a part of the British Raj in 1886. The same year the last of the royals, King Thibaw and Queen Supalaya and their children were taken prisoners to Ratnagiri in Maharashtra. Meanwhile, Indians and Chinese were encouraged by the British to populate urban centres like Yangon and Mandalay so as to facilitate trade and political administration. And most importantly, as workforce for the much needed rail and road infrastructure. Phenomenally large patches of teak wood forests were razed to ground for building rail carriages and laying tracks. Large tracts of swampy delta region were leased out or sold to Indian merchants who managed rice farming and its trade. Indians also had high stakes in the gem trade. It is estimated that in the 1930’s the number of Indians in Myanmar amounted to half of the nation’s total population.
Myanmar was always a resource rich nation and during the Raj it came to be considered the rice bowl of the world, also rich in teak wood resources, and precious stone deposits. The discovery and mechanized drilling of oil in the second half of the 19th century near Mandalay deepened the British interest in the nation’s wealth. Even today, in Yangon it’s the grand colonial structures of these prosperous times that grace the city streets laid out in a well planned grid system. Most streets and markets still retain their British names.
Myanmar hasn’t changed much since the British left them in total chaos to fend for themselves, after squeezing out most of the natural resources it had. The nation is in a time warp. There is an uneasy feeling of neglect and isolation about Yangon.
My Bangladeshi friend in Yangon took me through various streets seeking out the best of Burmese food and tea. And I was thrilled when she herself suggested a visit to the second most important purpose of my Yangon stay. A visit to the tomb of our last Mughal Bahadur Shah Zafar, who died in exile in Yangon in 1862. But the visit proved depressing. Not that I was expecting a grand monument. But neither did I expect to see a durgah so common, like the tens of them you find in the streets of Delhi. Definitely not for the Last Emperor of a dynasty that ruled most of India for 300 years. Except for the visits by Muslims and Sufis the durgah goes unnoticed even by the occational visitor to Yangon. But isn’t that what happened to the Burmese Royals in exile in Ratnagiri too? This was getting too depressing. I wished to get out of Yangon. I remembered the lines from Emperor Zafar’s poem that he wrote in last years “lagta nahi hai ji mera is ujade dayaar mein”. I felt the same way. I was glad to board the overnight bus to Mandalay.
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Pune Diaries Chapters 1-2 (through the eyes of young Varun, a 12 year old)
Chapter 1, Amchi Pune
Bina Thomas ( binatho@gmail.com )
Dear Diary,
Summer holidays weren’t that boring after all! Initially I was sad, thinking that I would be stuck in the house and in Pune city for two months, while all my friends went on vacation to various interesting places. Well, stuck in the city I was, but not in the house!!
You must be wondering what that means. Let me explain. Since we could not leave on a vacation during the summer holidays, Mom and I chalked out an itinerary for our travels and activities within the city. We were new to the city and decided to explore and discover it over a vacation. Our schedule included not just visiting places of historical importance but also of contemporary significance. In the beginning I was a little apprehensive;
“Exploring the city through this chaotic traffic and pollution,” I had asked.
“Think of it as discovering gems. Historic gems and modern day landmark establishments,” Mom has encouraged.
Even before we moved to Pune, we had heard a lot about the city. That it’s called as the `Queen of the Deccan’ was very impressive. Although, I never really tried finding out why it was called so? This second largest city of Maharashtra state is also known as the `Oxford of the East’ because of the premier educational institutions located here, some of which were the first in the country.
The `Cultural capital of Maharashtra’ - Pune most certainly is. A few months stay in Pune is enough to teach you that! Particularly during Ganesh utsav. Festivals here are livened up by a number of cultural programmes including classical as well as folk and contemporary dance, drama and music. This tradition bound city continues to host and support events which have been coming down from generations; like the recently held Palki of Sant Jyaneshwar and Tukaram. I shall tell you more about it when I narrate my visit to Alandi!
Pune was also called a `Pensioners Paradise’. This was because many senior citizens from neighboring cities, mainly from Bombay, preferred the peace and quite of Pune to settle down post retirement. Nestled in the Sahayadri Mountains, 560 m above sea level, along the confluence of the rivers Mula and Mutta, this picturesque city is inviting even today. But this sobriquet, `pensioners paradise’ for this bustling city is certainly a misnomer today.
Pune is thriving with young people from all over the country. They are either studying in one of the many colleges or working at the innumerable number of Indian as well as Multinational companies. There is also a large contingent of international student population. Added to this is the vast migrant population of artisans and skilled labour, who in search of work have made Pune their home. Today Pune has a population of over 45 lakh.
Pune definitely holds a great future. As a 12 yr old, even I can sense the promise the city holds for youngsters like me, in terms of education and opportunities. But its glorious past I was yet to discover. I will share with you my experiences. It has been a long journey. Not just discovering a city, but also its soul. In the process, not just was I learning more about the city but I was also beginning to feel more at home here!
Chapter 2, Shaniwarwada
Bina Thomas ( binatho@gmail.com )
Dear Diary,
I must have gone past the Shaniwarwada at least a few times in the past one year of being in the city, but was never interested in visiting the historical monument. So, when Mom suggested that Shaniwarwada was the first destination on our `Pune Darshan’ itinerary, I wasn’t very excited. “Why, Shaniwarwada?” I had said.
“Let’s begin at the very core,” she said, “Shaniwarwada was not just the political and cultural hub of the Peshwas, but also was and still is, the very heart of the city. Geographically too, it is located in Central Pune.”
Very soon we were navigating our way through the most crowed part of the city in a rickshaw. Our driver tried hard to dodge past the cyclist and, pedestrians, who seemed to jump in front our rickshaw, like pop up screens on my computer! Mom’s decision to not take our car through this chaotic traffic made complete sense.
“Not bad at all!” I thought as I stood in front of the impressive Delhi Gate or the main gate made of metal and wood with large spikes, so that even the enemies elephants will not succeed in forcing open the doors. For a structure that began as a residential mansion or `Wada’ to house the royal families of the Peshwas, Shaniwarwada was colossal. “That’s because, successive Peshwas added this stone fortification walls, bastions and gates” explained Mom. She had read about the monument before coming. “It took two years to build, from 10th January 1730 to 22nd January 1732. The entire complex spreads over an area of 150mx 200m (6.25 acres) and housed at least a 1000 people.”
“In all there are 5 gates,” the monument caretaker had chipped in, seeing me admiring the main gate. “The Dilli Darwaja was used by the Peshwas to set out for all their military campaigns. The others are Mastani or Alibahadur Darwaja, Khidki Darwaja, Ganesh Darwaja, and Narayan Darwaja,” he concluded. When I smiled, he wanted to engage me further with the many interesting and mysterious `stories’ about the Wada. I said “some other time” and continued with my exploration. Actually, I had heard of a few `stories’ from my classmates. But facts, like the name Shaniwarwada, for the largest Wada in Pune, was because construction began on a Shaniwar or Saturday, were really unique!!
For a monument which was destroyed by many calamities, like the fire in 1828, there is a lot to see within Shaniwarwada. The surviving foundations of minor mansions, regal halls, stables, kitchens and toilets are all so interesting. From our readings we knew that the layout of the entire Wada was spread out around two central courtyards. The much talked about Hazare Karanje or the `thousand’ spouted fountain, in the shape of a 196 petal lotus not just spoke of the decorative style of the times, but also of the intricate water works of those days. I didn’t know, until the caretaker informed me, that the water source for the fountain was an underground conduit that came from a lake in Katraj, 18kms away!
It was good fun climbing up the steps and walking along the fort walls. The view of the bustling city from the Nagarkahana, the special music gallery, set above the main gate transported me to the Peshwa era! For a moment I was Peshwa Bajirao I, addressing his people from his citadel!! Whatever the case, I was getting more and more intrigued by this city of Wadas’…..
Bina Thomas ( binatho@gmail.com )
Dear Diary,
Summer holidays weren’t that boring after all! Initially I was sad, thinking that I would be stuck in the house and in Pune city for two months, while all my friends went on vacation to various interesting places. Well, stuck in the city I was, but not in the house!!
You must be wondering what that means. Let me explain. Since we could not leave on a vacation during the summer holidays, Mom and I chalked out an itinerary for our travels and activities within the city. We were new to the city and decided to explore and discover it over a vacation. Our schedule included not just visiting places of historical importance but also of contemporary significance. In the beginning I was a little apprehensive;
“Exploring the city through this chaotic traffic and pollution,” I had asked.
“Think of it as discovering gems. Historic gems and modern day landmark establishments,” Mom has encouraged.
Even before we moved to Pune, we had heard a lot about the city. That it’s called as the `Queen of the Deccan’ was very impressive. Although, I never really tried finding out why it was called so? This second largest city of Maharashtra state is also known as the `Oxford of the East’ because of the premier educational institutions located here, some of which were the first in the country.
The `Cultural capital of Maharashtra’ - Pune most certainly is. A few months stay in Pune is enough to teach you that! Particularly during Ganesh utsav. Festivals here are livened up by a number of cultural programmes including classical as well as folk and contemporary dance, drama and music. This tradition bound city continues to host and support events which have been coming down from generations; like the recently held Palki of Sant Jyaneshwar and Tukaram. I shall tell you more about it when I narrate my visit to Alandi!
Pune was also called a `Pensioners Paradise’. This was because many senior citizens from neighboring cities, mainly from Bombay, preferred the peace and quite of Pune to settle down post retirement. Nestled in the Sahayadri Mountains, 560 m above sea level, along the confluence of the rivers Mula and Mutta, this picturesque city is inviting even today. But this sobriquet, `pensioners paradise’ for this bustling city is certainly a misnomer today.
Pune is thriving with young people from all over the country. They are either studying in one of the many colleges or working at the innumerable number of Indian as well as Multinational companies. There is also a large contingent of international student population. Added to this is the vast migrant population of artisans and skilled labour, who in search of work have made Pune their home. Today Pune has a population of over 45 lakh.
Pune definitely holds a great future. As a 12 yr old, even I can sense the promise the city holds for youngsters like me, in terms of education and opportunities. But its glorious past I was yet to discover. I will share with you my experiences. It has been a long journey. Not just discovering a city, but also its soul. In the process, not just was I learning more about the city but I was also beginning to feel more at home here!
Chapter 2, Shaniwarwada
Bina Thomas ( binatho@gmail.com )
Dear Diary,
I must have gone past the Shaniwarwada at least a few times in the past one year of being in the city, but was never interested in visiting the historical monument. So, when Mom suggested that Shaniwarwada was the first destination on our `Pune Darshan’ itinerary, I wasn’t very excited. “Why, Shaniwarwada?” I had said.
“Let’s begin at the very core,” she said, “Shaniwarwada was not just the political and cultural hub of the Peshwas, but also was and still is, the very heart of the city. Geographically too, it is located in Central Pune.”
Very soon we were navigating our way through the most crowed part of the city in a rickshaw. Our driver tried hard to dodge past the cyclist and, pedestrians, who seemed to jump in front our rickshaw, like pop up screens on my computer! Mom’s decision to not take our car through this chaotic traffic made complete sense.
“Not bad at all!” I thought as I stood in front of the impressive Delhi Gate or the main gate made of metal and wood with large spikes, so that even the enemies elephants will not succeed in forcing open the doors. For a structure that began as a residential mansion or `Wada’ to house the royal families of the Peshwas, Shaniwarwada was colossal. “That’s because, successive Peshwas added this stone fortification walls, bastions and gates” explained Mom. She had read about the monument before coming. “It took two years to build, from 10th January 1730 to 22nd January 1732. The entire complex spreads over an area of 150mx 200m (6.25 acres) and housed at least a 1000 people.”
“In all there are 5 gates,” the monument caretaker had chipped in, seeing me admiring the main gate. “The Dilli Darwaja was used by the Peshwas to set out for all their military campaigns. The others are Mastani or Alibahadur Darwaja, Khidki Darwaja, Ganesh Darwaja, and Narayan Darwaja,” he concluded. When I smiled, he wanted to engage me further with the many interesting and mysterious `stories’ about the Wada. I said “some other time” and continued with my exploration. Actually, I had heard of a few `stories’ from my classmates. But facts, like the name Shaniwarwada, for the largest Wada in Pune, was because construction began on a Shaniwar or Saturday, were really unique!!
For a monument which was destroyed by many calamities, like the fire in 1828, there is a lot to see within Shaniwarwada. The surviving foundations of minor mansions, regal halls, stables, kitchens and toilets are all so interesting. From our readings we knew that the layout of the entire Wada was spread out around two central courtyards. The much talked about Hazare Karanje or the `thousand’ spouted fountain, in the shape of a 196 petal lotus not just spoke of the decorative style of the times, but also of the intricate water works of those days. I didn’t know, until the caretaker informed me, that the water source for the fountain was an underground conduit that came from a lake in Katraj, 18kms away!
It was good fun climbing up the steps and walking along the fort walls. The view of the bustling city from the Nagarkahana, the special music gallery, set above the main gate transported me to the Peshwa era! For a moment I was Peshwa Bajirao I, addressing his people from his citadel!! Whatever the case, I was getting more and more intrigued by this city of Wadas’…..
Eco sensitive Festivities
Eco sensitive Festivities
Dr. Bina Thomas ( binatho@gmail.com )
As Climate Change becomes an issue of increasing concern day by day, environmentalists all over the world are doing their bit to save the globe from its disastrous effects. The efforts include not just making policy changes at national and international levels, but also encouraging people, you and me, to be eco sensitive in their daily lives; and particularly during festive seasons like Christmas time!
A time when people spend a lot of money to buy, buy, and buy more gifts for themselves and others. We could restrain our consumerist tendencies and instead of going the `Have Money Will Spend’ way, we could spend or donate for a worthy cause or to the needy.
We could opt to be eco-sensitive while selecting gifts. Like for instance, avoid buying not just toxic and harmful toys for kids, but also battery operated toys. We could think of gifting organic stuff like fruit hampers of exotic or indigenous fruits or vegetables. Or even of local style preserves or bakery goodies. But do taste the food items before deciding to gift the product to others!! Potted plants are charming gifts too. And pets are simply adorable, for someone who can really care for them.
The Bangkok local markets like Jatujak are flooded with eco sensitive items that make for really nice gifts. These include fantastic artifacts, curios, bouquets of artistically arranged dry flowers, decorative lights, vases, trays, mats, vessels, and a host of other gift articles made of fruit kernels and other organic material. Buying these unique items also supports the host of cottage industries involved in its making.
Reducing the amount of wrapping and packaging is another great contribution towards being eco-sensitive. Gift wrapping, most often get ripped open and dumped without even a moments thought given to how pretty, elaborate, or expensive it looks. But if you do receive wrapped gifts, then unwrap carefully and save the pretty paper. You can make interesting trinkets for the Christmas tree with these beautiful sheets!! How? Cut the thick card paper from old greeting cards into interesting shapes and paste the glossy wrapping paper over it. Pierce a tiny hole to pass a string. One could recycle bright and pretty cloth pieces in the same way. And yes, reuse Christmas trees too!! You don’t have to buy a new one every year.
Wrapping paper can also be reused to make interesting festoons! Just crumple, bunch, or pleat them. Or cut them into tiny bits and use them as shiny confetti’s!! The idea is to get as creative as possible. Not only does it help replace non biodegradable festive decorations of glass, thermocole, and plastic, but it is also a great activity to engage children with.
And lastly, Mall hopping in Bangkok can be good fun by public transport like the BTS. Lets do our little bit to reduce carbon emissions. Every happening mall is connected with a station. Just hop off the train and stroll into a mall!! Happy Christmas.
Dr. Bina Thomas ( binatho@gmail.com )
As Climate Change becomes an issue of increasing concern day by day, environmentalists all over the world are doing their bit to save the globe from its disastrous effects. The efforts include not just making policy changes at national and international levels, but also encouraging people, you and me, to be eco sensitive in their daily lives; and particularly during festive seasons like Christmas time!
A time when people spend a lot of money to buy, buy, and buy more gifts for themselves and others. We could restrain our consumerist tendencies and instead of going the `Have Money Will Spend’ way, we could spend or donate for a worthy cause or to the needy.
We could opt to be eco-sensitive while selecting gifts. Like for instance, avoid buying not just toxic and harmful toys for kids, but also battery operated toys. We could think of gifting organic stuff like fruit hampers of exotic or indigenous fruits or vegetables. Or even of local style preserves or bakery goodies. But do taste the food items before deciding to gift the product to others!! Potted plants are charming gifts too. And pets are simply adorable, for someone who can really care for them.
The Bangkok local markets like Jatujak are flooded with eco sensitive items that make for really nice gifts. These include fantastic artifacts, curios, bouquets of artistically arranged dry flowers, decorative lights, vases, trays, mats, vessels, and a host of other gift articles made of fruit kernels and other organic material. Buying these unique items also supports the host of cottage industries involved in its making.
Reducing the amount of wrapping and packaging is another great contribution towards being eco-sensitive. Gift wrapping, most often get ripped open and dumped without even a moments thought given to how pretty, elaborate, or expensive it looks. But if you do receive wrapped gifts, then unwrap carefully and save the pretty paper. You can make interesting trinkets for the Christmas tree with these beautiful sheets!! How? Cut the thick card paper from old greeting cards into interesting shapes and paste the glossy wrapping paper over it. Pierce a tiny hole to pass a string. One could recycle bright and pretty cloth pieces in the same way. And yes, reuse Christmas trees too!! You don’t have to buy a new one every year.
Wrapping paper can also be reused to make interesting festoons! Just crumple, bunch, or pleat them. Or cut them into tiny bits and use them as shiny confetti’s!! The idea is to get as creative as possible. Not only does it help replace non biodegradable festive decorations of glass, thermocole, and plastic, but it is also a great activity to engage children with.
And lastly, Mall hopping in Bangkok can be good fun by public transport like the BTS. Lets do our little bit to reduce carbon emissions. Every happening mall is connected with a station. Just hop off the train and stroll into a mall!! Happy Christmas.
In Kambojadesa
In Kambojadesa
Bina Thomas ( binatho@gmail.com )
I was scheduled to visit only Bangkok. But I also harbored a secret wish - my wish to hop across to Cambodia from Bangkok, to see the Angkor Wat. From the time I read and saw pictures of Angkor Wat, and Bayon, the mega temple complexes in the Siam Reap province of Cambodia, I was truly enchanted. That was a very long time ago, while I was still a student. So I was overjoyed when my wish was granted. I was allowed, not just a leap into Cambodia, but also five days stay!!
Siam Reap is actually a half hour `hop’ by flight from Bangkok. The monument alone attracts more than 4 million visitors in a year. In this small, lush green country, subsisting largely on an agrarian economy along the alluvial plains of the Mekong river and its delta, Angkor Wat is all there is to see, in terms of tourists interest. I would have also loved to explore the fascinating tropical regions along the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers. But there was no time for that exciting adventure!
Declared as a World Heritage monument, Angkor Wat is considered as the world’s largest surviving temple complex. And indeed, there is so much to see at Angkor Wat. Even three full days seemed inadequate to explore the innumerable monuments strewn all over the Angkor complex. Not to mention the many more scattered all over the Siam Reap province and its surrounds. Exploring those would probably take weeks! The monuments and its settings are just so intriguing, that any one would want to dwell deeper into its maze of history, and spend more time exploring further. It is a must see for all interested in ancient art and architecture.
Historians suggest the word `Angkor’ could mean a `city’, a `centre’ or even an `encircled town’ considering that the whole temple complex at Angkor Wat is surrounded by an inner and outer moat. The outer moat is both wide and deep enough to allow ancient trading ships to enter and anchor close to the temple precincts. `Wat’ however is a common word for temple even in Thailand. The monuments and its settings at this `city of temples’ suggest a sudden surge of stone based architectural activity in the 9th Century AD, which included not just temples, but also structures for residential and official purposes. The region was the capital of the Khmer Kingdom for nearly three centuries, till it shifted to another location near Siam Reap and finally to Phnom Penh, the modern day capital of Cambodia.
This brief history of a few hundreds of years at Angkor Wat is marked with an intriguing interplay of Buddhist and well as Hindu architectural features. And I must add, for an Indian, witnessing the ancient cultural links between India and Cambodia, in not just the architecture at Angkor Wat and Bayon, but also in the iconography of gods and goddesses, their names, the depiction of associated mythology, and the epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata on the temple walls, and much more, is truly a happy feeling!!
Like most countries sandwiched between the two ancient civilizations of India and China, Cambodia too absorbed cultural influences from these two nations. Known as Kambojadesa in ancient Sanskrit texts, Cambodia finds mention in the records of journeys conducted by royals and traders to peninsular regions and islands, know as Survana Bhoomi and Suvarna Dweep respectively, in South East Asia. Although we cannot pinpoint when these escapades may have started, they certainly became a planned business and political expansion strategy for the ruling dynasties in Southern India from the 7th century AD onwards.
In fact, temples dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva is very common in South East Asian countries. Except for the difference in their racial features and costume, the iconographies of gods remain the same as found in India. It’s amazing how gods travel!! In Cambodia, Hinduism flourished along with the Theravada, one of the oldest forms of Buddhism, during the Khmer Civilization since the 6th Century AD. Many Indian scholars, artists, traders, and religious teachers are said to have traveled to these regions. Most of them were royal guests. Sanskrit literature also flourished with royal patronage. And along with it came our myths, legends, and epics.
I had one more day and so decided to visit Phnom Penh. The four hour drive from Angkor Wat to Phnom Penh along the alluvial plains of the Tonle Sap River, green with paddy fields, was very enjoyable. Phnom Penh, located at the confluence of three rivers, is like a small town in comparison to Bangkok or our own Mumbai. No skyscrapers or glitzy malls or traffic hauls!
I searched the city streets for remnants of French colonial occupation of Cambodia. But found little. But while exploring the city by foot, I was struck by the large numbers of disabled humans, mostly with amputated legs, begging on the streets of Phnom Penh. Cambodia is one of the most land-mined countries in the world. The innumerable unexploded land mines left behind since the 1970’s, particularly in the rural regions, has caused more than tens of thousands of deaths and even more injured children and adults. In that sense, the city and its people, in many ways reflect the after effects of the Vietnam War and the Khmer Rouge regime. A visit to the Tueol Sleng prison, now a Genocide museum is a must, not just to get a glimpse of Cambodia’s brutal war-time history, but to just stand in those empty `torture’ rooms, with walls lined with photographs of the hundreds tortured and killed there, and make a solemn promise to oneself to always strive for world peace!!
But for a country emerging out of the violent political turmoil in the recent past Cambodia is doing very well. Besides agriculture and tourism, Cambodia also has a thriving garment industry. I remembered how in Bangkok, road side garment stalls would deliberately cross out the `Made in Cambodia’ labels on cheap but good quality export surpluses imported from Cambodia. The country may not be hip and happening like Bangkok, but it is certainly working hard towards a promising future.
***************
Bina Thomas ( binatho@gmail.com )
I was scheduled to visit only Bangkok. But I also harbored a secret wish - my wish to hop across to Cambodia from Bangkok, to see the Angkor Wat. From the time I read and saw pictures of Angkor Wat, and Bayon, the mega temple complexes in the Siam Reap province of Cambodia, I was truly enchanted. That was a very long time ago, while I was still a student. So I was overjoyed when my wish was granted. I was allowed, not just a leap into Cambodia, but also five days stay!!
Siam Reap is actually a half hour `hop’ by flight from Bangkok. The monument alone attracts more than 4 million visitors in a year. In this small, lush green country, subsisting largely on an agrarian economy along the alluvial plains of the Mekong river and its delta, Angkor Wat is all there is to see, in terms of tourists interest. I would have also loved to explore the fascinating tropical regions along the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers. But there was no time for that exciting adventure!
Declared as a World Heritage monument, Angkor Wat is considered as the world’s largest surviving temple complex. And indeed, there is so much to see at Angkor Wat. Even three full days seemed inadequate to explore the innumerable monuments strewn all over the Angkor complex. Not to mention the many more scattered all over the Siam Reap province and its surrounds. Exploring those would probably take weeks! The monuments and its settings are just so intriguing, that any one would want to dwell deeper into its maze of history, and spend more time exploring further. It is a must see for all interested in ancient art and architecture.
Historians suggest the word `Angkor’ could mean a `city’, a `centre’ or even an `encircled town’ considering that the whole temple complex at Angkor Wat is surrounded by an inner and outer moat. The outer moat is both wide and deep enough to allow ancient trading ships to enter and anchor close to the temple precincts. `Wat’ however is a common word for temple even in Thailand. The monuments and its settings at this `city of temples’ suggest a sudden surge of stone based architectural activity in the 9th Century AD, which included not just temples, but also structures for residential and official purposes. The region was the capital of the Khmer Kingdom for nearly three centuries, till it shifted to another location near Siam Reap and finally to Phnom Penh, the modern day capital of Cambodia.
This brief history of a few hundreds of years at Angkor Wat is marked with an intriguing interplay of Buddhist and well as Hindu architectural features. And I must add, for an Indian, witnessing the ancient cultural links between India and Cambodia, in not just the architecture at Angkor Wat and Bayon, but also in the iconography of gods and goddesses, their names, the depiction of associated mythology, and the epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata on the temple walls, and much more, is truly a happy feeling!!
Like most countries sandwiched between the two ancient civilizations of India and China, Cambodia too absorbed cultural influences from these two nations. Known as Kambojadesa in ancient Sanskrit texts, Cambodia finds mention in the records of journeys conducted by royals and traders to peninsular regions and islands, know as Survana Bhoomi and Suvarna Dweep respectively, in South East Asia. Although we cannot pinpoint when these escapades may have started, they certainly became a planned business and political expansion strategy for the ruling dynasties in Southern India from the 7th century AD onwards.
In fact, temples dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva is very common in South East Asian countries. Except for the difference in their racial features and costume, the iconographies of gods remain the same as found in India. It’s amazing how gods travel!! In Cambodia, Hinduism flourished along with the Theravada, one of the oldest forms of Buddhism, during the Khmer Civilization since the 6th Century AD. Many Indian scholars, artists, traders, and religious teachers are said to have traveled to these regions. Most of them were royal guests. Sanskrit literature also flourished with royal patronage. And along with it came our myths, legends, and epics.
I had one more day and so decided to visit Phnom Penh. The four hour drive from Angkor Wat to Phnom Penh along the alluvial plains of the Tonle Sap River, green with paddy fields, was very enjoyable. Phnom Penh, located at the confluence of three rivers, is like a small town in comparison to Bangkok or our own Mumbai. No skyscrapers or glitzy malls or traffic hauls!
I searched the city streets for remnants of French colonial occupation of Cambodia. But found little. But while exploring the city by foot, I was struck by the large numbers of disabled humans, mostly with amputated legs, begging on the streets of Phnom Penh. Cambodia is one of the most land-mined countries in the world. The innumerable unexploded land mines left behind since the 1970’s, particularly in the rural regions, has caused more than tens of thousands of deaths and even more injured children and adults. In that sense, the city and its people, in many ways reflect the after effects of the Vietnam War and the Khmer Rouge regime. A visit to the Tueol Sleng prison, now a Genocide museum is a must, not just to get a glimpse of Cambodia’s brutal war-time history, but to just stand in those empty `torture’ rooms, with walls lined with photographs of the hundreds tortured and killed there, and make a solemn promise to oneself to always strive for world peace!!
But for a country emerging out of the violent political turmoil in the recent past Cambodia is doing very well. Besides agriculture and tourism, Cambodia also has a thriving garment industry. I remembered how in Bangkok, road side garment stalls would deliberately cross out the `Made in Cambodia’ labels on cheap but good quality export surpluses imported from Cambodia. The country may not be hip and happening like Bangkok, but it is certainly working hard towards a promising future.
***************
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)