Surviving Gems.....of Pune
I thoroughly enjoyed my ride on Kaka’s scooter, through the narrow gullies of old Pune city, locating the Wadas in my list of `surviving gems’. I had plotted them on a city map of Pune. Although Kaka didn’t need the help of a map, studying the details in the map was a novel learning experience for me.
A walk through the old city division or peths of Pune, shows how the Wada legacy of Peshwai Pune, still dominates the city core. Many Wadas are being rented out in bits and pieces, the owners preferring to stay in smaller flats or bungalows, which require less maintenance. Many have crumbled down, or pulled down for new structures. But, there are some like the Vishrambaug Wada, which still stand strong and resplendent of its old glory. Built during1803 - 1809, this 3 storied Wada was the home of the last Peshwa, Bajirao II. Later on it housed the Poona Sanskrit College, the first British sponsored Educational Institution. Located in Sadashiv peth, it has beautiful columns and balconies. It now houses a museum and some government offices.
Another gem is the Nana Wada in Budhwar Peth. Built by Nana Phadnavis, it’s an architectural delight with wooden ceilings, railings, and chhatris or canopies. Nana was the chief administrator of the Peshwas. One of his most significant contributions has been the setting up of a drainage system for Pune, way back in the 1780’s!! Today a section of this building is being used as school and government offices. The Kesari Wada in Narayan Peth was built by the Gaikwads during the Peshwa rule. Stalwart freedom fighter Lokmanya Tilak started the Kesari and Mahratta Newspaper from here, and since then the Wada has been historically famous. Even today it houses the offices of Kesari, mementos of Tilak and the first National Flag unfurled by Madam Cama!!
Other than the few politically significant Wadas, there are many Wadas of local elites. Like the elaborate Mazumdar Wada, located near Shaniwarwada. It is 234 yrs old and the kitchen well’s water is still as clear and unpolluted!! Raste Wada at Rasta peth has a façade that resembles a Rajastahani Haveli. Purander Wada in Kasba Peth and Natu Wada at Shaniwar peth are equally fascinating. Wadas continued to be built till the end of the 19th century.
The growing British influence and control gave rise to social reforms and subsequently nationalist movements in the country. Eminent Indian reformers and leaders of the city made use of the versatile structure of the Wada, its courtyards and halls to hold meetings, gatherings, and debates. Wadas were used to house schools for girls, and for lower caste children, orphanages, widow homes, and offices. Even today, these institutions continue.
The foreground of Shaniwarwada was and still is an ideal space for public gatherings and programmes. That reminds me, Lokmanya Tilak held his first public Ganapati festival in the Vinchurkar Wada in 1894……..
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
The Wadas of Pune
Wadas of Pune
After visiting Shaniwarwada, the fortified citadel of the Peshwas since 18th century, I decided to explore the city further. At a bustling market place, I got off the rickshaw. And, what do I see! Another magnificent heritage building in dark wood, with beautiful carvings! It was the Vishrambaug Wada and I was struck by its quaint beauty.
“The second Wada for the day,” I said aloud to myself. “Why stop at two, madam? There are many more Wadas in amchi Pune,” said the fruit seller, watching me looking at the Wada, unmindful of the chaotic traffic around me. “I too stay in an old Wada. Would you like to visit it? Of course, it’s not stately as the Vishrambaug Wada,” he invited. This was getting interesting. That was it. I had to learn more about the Wadas of Pune before visiting a few of them.
The next couple of days, I gathered as much information as I could on the Wadas of Pune. Just as every region has a distinctive form of architecture, which is largely determined by the climate and building material available locally; as cities prospered, traditional styles for residential complexes to accommodate larger households, came into being. Like the havelis in Rajasthan, or the nallu kettus of Kerala, in Pune, it was the Wada style architecture.
Wadas are dwellings made of, brick and lime plaster with a timber frame. Raised on a high stone plinth, they are generally structured around two courtyards with beautiful facades, balconies and windows. The inner rooms and courtyard, was appropriated by the women folk of the household. It consisted of a large kitchen, store room, prayer room, a birthing room, granary, and cowshed. It also houses the well. The outer courtyard, verandah or osari, rooms, and halls were reserved for guests, meetings with business associates, and working space for accountants and clerks. Most Wadas have a typical heavy wooden door of wooden or metal frame with a smaller opening or dindi for every day use. The doorway has a carved strip with auspicious symbols, known as ganesh pati. They have raised devdis or guard rooms on both sides inside the entrance.
Although the Wada form of construction began in the Maratha period itself, it was during the Peshwa times, and particularly during the later half of the 18th century, that it gained maximum popularity as a residential structure or house form. Traditionally, these are not grand avenues, but basic and functional. But as the city and its affluent community grew, the Wadas flowered into beautiful and luxurious mansions with large durbar halls, intricately carved wooden columns and ceilings, with ivory, copper and gold inlays. Large mirrors, glass paintings, and chandeliers adorned the rooms in the front. Fountains and tulsi shrines in the first and second courtyards respectively, became a common feature. The number of floor levels increased from two to sometimes even seven!
With the onset of Colonial rule in Pune in early 19th Century, the wealthy Puneites had to curb there extravagant lifestyles. Income from friends and relatives in power during Peshwai times, and other dubious sources reduced. Maintenance of large residential Wadas became difficult. With the breaking down of the joint family system, most Wadas ran into further neglect. Many of them were and still are rented out in bits and pieces.
Many Wadas have crumbled down, or pulled down to make way for newer construction. But there are some which still stand strong and resplendent of its old glory. Some of the wells in these old Wadas are still in use, its water just as clear, and unpolluted. I will write about them later. Also, how these Wadas were used for public welfare by the Reformists of the 19th century, and later by freedom fighters.
A walk through the old lanes or peths of Pune will give adequate proof of how the Wada legacy of Peshwai Pune, still dominates the city core. And how they were an integral part of the cities urban growth. Today, when I see how newer constructions dwarf these architectural gems, I feel very sad. Change is inevitable, but it should also make space to conserve our heritage…….
After visiting Shaniwarwada, the fortified citadel of the Peshwas since 18th century, I decided to explore the city further. At a bustling market place, I got off the rickshaw. And, what do I see! Another magnificent heritage building in dark wood, with beautiful carvings! It was the Vishrambaug Wada and I was struck by its quaint beauty.
“The second Wada for the day,” I said aloud to myself. “Why stop at two, madam? There are many more Wadas in amchi Pune,” said the fruit seller, watching me looking at the Wada, unmindful of the chaotic traffic around me. “I too stay in an old Wada. Would you like to visit it? Of course, it’s not stately as the Vishrambaug Wada,” he invited. This was getting interesting. That was it. I had to learn more about the Wadas of Pune before visiting a few of them.
The next couple of days, I gathered as much information as I could on the Wadas of Pune. Just as every region has a distinctive form of architecture, which is largely determined by the climate and building material available locally; as cities prospered, traditional styles for residential complexes to accommodate larger households, came into being. Like the havelis in Rajasthan, or the nallu kettus of Kerala, in Pune, it was the Wada style architecture.
Wadas are dwellings made of, brick and lime plaster with a timber frame. Raised on a high stone plinth, they are generally structured around two courtyards with beautiful facades, balconies and windows. The inner rooms and courtyard, was appropriated by the women folk of the household. It consisted of a large kitchen, store room, prayer room, a birthing room, granary, and cowshed. It also houses the well. The outer courtyard, verandah or osari, rooms, and halls were reserved for guests, meetings with business associates, and working space for accountants and clerks. Most Wadas have a typical heavy wooden door of wooden or metal frame with a smaller opening or dindi for every day use. The doorway has a carved strip with auspicious symbols, known as ganesh pati. They have raised devdis or guard rooms on both sides inside the entrance.
Although the Wada form of construction began in the Maratha period itself, it was during the Peshwa times, and particularly during the later half of the 18th century, that it gained maximum popularity as a residential structure or house form. Traditionally, these are not grand avenues, but basic and functional. But as the city and its affluent community grew, the Wadas flowered into beautiful and luxurious mansions with large durbar halls, intricately carved wooden columns and ceilings, with ivory, copper and gold inlays. Large mirrors, glass paintings, and chandeliers adorned the rooms in the front. Fountains and tulsi shrines in the first and second courtyards respectively, became a common feature. The number of floor levels increased from two to sometimes even seven!
With the onset of Colonial rule in Pune in early 19th Century, the wealthy Puneites had to curb there extravagant lifestyles. Income from friends and relatives in power during Peshwai times, and other dubious sources reduced. Maintenance of large residential Wadas became difficult. With the breaking down of the joint family system, most Wadas ran into further neglect. Many of them were and still are rented out in bits and pieces.
Many Wadas have crumbled down, or pulled down to make way for newer construction. But there are some which still stand strong and resplendent of its old glory. Some of the wells in these old Wadas are still in use, its water just as clear, and unpolluted. I will write about them later. Also, how these Wadas were used for public welfare by the Reformists of the 19th century, and later by freedom fighters.
A walk through the old lanes or peths of Pune will give adequate proof of how the Wada legacy of Peshwai Pune, still dominates the city core. And how they were an integral part of the cities urban growth. Today, when I see how newer constructions dwarf these architectural gems, I feel very sad. Change is inevitable, but it should also make space to conserve our heritage…….
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