Biju cringed with anxiety. But he had to act, as per the plan that had taken shape in his little head since the past few weeks. Sitting at his classroom desk, he watched the row of classes along the length of the school building. The rooms reminded him of the graphic details, of grandfathers splendid narration of the Central jail where Biju’s great grandparents were male and female jail-wardens respectively. The iron barred windows, the uniformed students; the stern looking teachers in every room, all seemed to make the classrooms more like a prison. It was not a pleasant place to be.
Definitely not a place that Biju fancied waking up in the wee hours of the morning for, or get washed in the cold well water, or get dabbed with fragrant talcum powder, or get dressed in fresh clothes. The worst part was saying `ta-ta’ to mother. As father pulled him along, muttering about the school jeep leaving without him and the troubles of then having to drop him by some different means of transportation and not reaching in time for the school assembly…. It all seemed like being taken to the slaughter house. Biju certainly didn’t look forward to going to school every morning. He wished and secretly prayed for many more city and state hartals and holidays. But well, things hardly changed. Each morning was the same. Getting up early and rushing to school.
Biju didn’t mind it now. He’d got used to it. When he came back home towards the end of a hot and tiring day at school, he’d wonder of all the fantastic fun and games he could have engaged in the mornings and afternoons if he’d been at home. Living in the outhouse of a big bungalow in the interiors of a small town of a lush green state like his was just great. Besides the paddy fields and the rubber plantations skirting the hills and valleys around his village, his immediate surroundings had huge teak, coconut, mango, cashew, and jackfruit trees. Since the grand old lady of the house lived alone, with frequent phone calls and occasional visits from her two children living abroad, the house or the huge yard surrounding it was hardly maintained. But Biju loved the wilderness. The serpentine pepper creepers on the mango trees, the low branches of the cashew tree, the peculiar curves of the coconut trees, and the abundance of the jackfruit trees, all enchanted him. Smaller plants like the many stray shrubs of different shaped and coloured chilies, tomatoes and ladies finger, the fragrant leaves of turmeric, stand alone trees like papaya, and coffee, and the plentitude of wild flowers and berries, made his Sunday afternoon romps very interesting. It was more an exploration. He dreamt of a day when he would go up the notches on the coconut trees like Unni tandaan, pull a swing on the topmost branches of the mango tree and learn to shoot down fruits like an ace archer.
But now, that would all have to wait. Going to school day after day barely gave him any time for such planning or practice.
According to Biju, the best time for exploration was after the initial few rains of the season. He liked the smell of the earth, and the sogginess of fallen leaves. Biju never thought of them as `dead leaves’. Instead they were protective dry covers for his favorite creepy crawlies. He would chat up with the ladybirds and the grasshoppers. He would stare in amazement at the coiling piles of tiny millipedes and the marching armies of angry red ants. The best part was monitoring the growth of sprouting new seeds of jackfruits and mangoes. He enjoyed carrying these newly germinated seeds to show the grand old lady, and if she was impressed, ask for permission to plant it in some corner of his choice. Amachi, as Biju called her, would mostly say that the plant will take ages to bear fruit, unlike the `super fast’ fruit trees bought from the plant nursery. But Biju was prepared to wait. He had all the time in the world. But this school was eating up a huge chunk of time from his days.
Once back from school, it would soon grow dark and all mothers would herd their children into their respective homes and that would be the end of another beautiful day. Kids could hardly protest. Sapped of all the energy at school itself, these little bodies would anyway be running in reserve during the couples of hours of evening play. Biju’s father and mother worked as driver and maid for the old lady. As the old lady’s caretaker they had to attend to several errands, and tasks throughout the day. Actually Biju knew his parents were only too glad to send him to school. Not only because they thought he would one day become an officer and a gentleman, but also because they wanted him out of the house and their care. Not because Biju was a naughty boy, but he was quite a wanderer and often went `missing’ in the neighborhood. Although Biju believed he could manage himself very well, his parent thought otherwise and ended up screaming out his name every two three hours. So, sending Biju to a secure and safely guarded place like school every morning, they thought, helped them to concentrate on their other duties.
But little did they know of Biju’s mad plan. He’d been planning it for a very long time. It was now time to execute it. And why not? He was big, and strong. And above all, he was brave. And he was one, two, three, four, five, and a half ……
Friday, May 28, 2010
Thursday, May 20, 2010
biography so far....
About Me
my mother thinks i must have been a cat in my past life. because, i don't spare a single fish bone in my plate! i love cats. and i have a fetish for cleanliness, like the cat. and i hate closed rooms. i crave for windows and doors and rays of sunshine. i don't belong to any one geographical place. home is where the heart is.... and my heart was in baroda when i was little, then in pune where it snuggled up close to someone, then in bangkok where it refused to settled down, and now its terribly lost and divided between oslo and trivandrum. but there is no sense of belonging like being in india. writing (prose and poetry) happens amidst all these. heritage studies is my primary passion. working with children and young adults and writing for their age group my favorite engagement. solitary travels into quaint `upcountry' locations in india and around the globe is an addiction, managed to do a lot of it in India as a `full time' archaeologist and `part-time' environment/women/child rights activist. my writings are more of an exercise in reliving my own memories and nostalgia.... i have two kidz and one partner; actually we are college buddies who sprouted two kidz along the way. my kidz are my primary orbit. its a choice i made. i like it that way.........much much more to add.....but much much later.............
my mother thinks i must have been a cat in my past life. because, i don't spare a single fish bone in my plate! i love cats. and i have a fetish for cleanliness, like the cat. and i hate closed rooms. i crave for windows and doors and rays of sunshine. i don't belong to any one geographical place. home is where the heart is.... and my heart was in baroda when i was little, then in pune where it snuggled up close to someone, then in bangkok where it refused to settled down, and now its terribly lost and divided between oslo and trivandrum. but there is no sense of belonging like being in india. writing (prose and poetry) happens amidst all these. heritage studies is my primary passion. working with children and young adults and writing for their age group my favorite engagement. solitary travels into quaint `upcountry' locations in india and around the globe is an addiction, managed to do a lot of it in India as a `full time' archaeologist and `part-time' environment/women/child rights activist. my writings are more of an exercise in reliving my own memories and nostalgia.... i have two kidz and one partner; actually we are college buddies who sprouted two kidz along the way. my kidz are my primary orbit. its a choice i made. i like it that way.........much much more to add.....but much much later.............
Friday, May 14, 2010
Pune Diaries.....for the young ones
Chapter 1, Summer Holidays
Dear Diary,
Summer holidays weren’t that boring after all! Initially I was sad, thinking that I would be stuck in the house and in Pune city for two months, while all my friends went on vacation to various interesting places. Well, stuck in the city I was, but not in the house!!
You must be wondering what that means. Let me explain. Since we could not leave on a vacation during the summer holidays, Mom and I chalked out an itinerary for our travels and activities within the city. We were new to the city and decided to explore and discover it over a vacation. Our schedule included not just visiting places of historical importance but also of contemporary significance. In the beginning I was a little apprehensive;
“Exploring the city through this chaotic traffic and pollution,” I had asked.
“Think of it as discovering gems. Historic gems and modern day landmark establishments,” Mom has encouraged.
Even before we moved to Pune, we had heard a lot about the city. That it’s called as the `Queen of the Deccan’ was very impressive. Although, I never really tried finding out why it was called so? This second largest city of Maharashtra state is also known as the `Oxford of the East’ because of the premier educational institutions located here, some of which were the first in the country.
The `Cultural capital of Maharashtra’ - Pune most certainly is. A few months stay in Pune is enough to teach you that! Particularly during Ganesh utsav. Festivals here are livened up by a number of cultural programmes including classical as well as folk and contemporary dance, drama and music. This tradition bound city continues to host and support events which have been coming down from generations; like the recently held Palki of Sant Jyaneshwar and Tukaram. I shall tell you more about it when I narrate my visit to Alandi!
Pune was also called a `Pensioners Paradise’. This was because many senior citizens from neighboring cities, mainly from Bombay, preferred the peace and quite of Pune to settle down post retirement. Nestled in the Sahayadri Mountains, 560 m above sea level, along the confluence of the rivers Mula and Mutta, this picturesque city is inviting even today. But this sobriquet, `pensioners paradise’ for this bustling city is certainly a misnomer today.
Pune is thriving with young people from all over the country. They are either studying in one of the many colleges or working at the innumerable number of Indian as well as Multinational companies. There is also a large contingent of international student population. Added to this is the vast migrant population of artisans and skilled labour, who in search of work have made Pune their home. Today Pune has a population of over 45 lakh.
Pune definitely holds a great future. As a 12 yr old, even I can sense the promise the city holds for youngsters like me, in terms of education and opportunities. But its glorious past I was yet to discover. I will share with you my experiences. It has been a long journey. Not just discovering a city, but also its soul. In the process, not just was I learning more about the city but I was also beginning to feel more at home here!
Chapter 2, Shaniwarwada
Dear Diary,
I must have gone past the Shaniwarwada at least a few times in the past one year of being in the city, but was never interested in visiting the historical monument. So, when Mom suggested that Shaniwarwada was the first destination on our `Pune Darshan’ itinerary, I wasn’t very excited. “Why, Shaniwarwada?” I had said.
“Let’s begin at the very core,” she said, “Shaniwarwada was not just the political and cultural hub of the Peshwas, but also was and still is, the very heart of the city. Geographically too, it is located in Central Pune.”
Very soon we were navigating our way through the most crowed part of the city in a rickshaw. Our driver tried hard to dodge past the cyclist and, pedestrians, who seemed to jump in front our rickshaw, like pop up screens on my computer! Mom’s decision to not take our car through this chaotic traffic made complete sense.
“Not bad at all!” I thought as I stood in front of the impressive Delhi Gate or the main gate made of metal and wood with large spikes, so that even the enemies elephants will not succeed in forcing open the doors. For a structure that began as a residential mansion or `Wada’ to house the royal families of the Peshwas, Shaniwarwada was colossal. “That’s because, successive Peshwas added this stone fortification walls, bastions and gates” explained Mom. She had read about the monument before coming. “It took two years to build, from 10th January 1730 to 22nd January 1732. The entire complex spreads over an area of 150mx 200m (6.25 acres) and housed at least a 1000 people.”
“In all there are 5 gates,” the monument caretaker had chipped in, seeing me admiring the main gate. “The Dilli Darwaja was used by the Peshwas to set out for all their military campaigns. The others are Mastani or Alibahadur Darwaja, Khidki Darwaja, Ganesh Darwaja, and Narayan Darwaja,” he concluded. When I smiled, he wanted to engage me further with the many interesting and mysterious `stories’ about the Wada. I said “some other time” and continued with my exploration. Actually, I had heard of a few `stories’ from my classmates. But facts, like the name Shaniwarwada, for the largest Wada in Pune, was because construction began on a Shaniwar or Saturday, were really unique!!
For a monument which was destroyed by many calamities, like the fire in 1828, there is a lot to see within Shaniwarwada. The surviving foundations of minor mansions, regal halls, stables, kitchens and toilets are all so interesting. From our readings we knew that the layout of the entire Wada was spread out around two central courtyards. The much talked about Hazare Karanje or the `thousand’ spouted fountain, in the shape of a 196 petal lotus not just spoke of the decorative style of the times, but also of the intricate water works of those days. I didn’t know, until the caretaker informed me, that the water source for the fountain was an underground conduit that came from a lake in Katraj, 18kms away!
It was good fun climbing up the steps and walking along the fort walls. The view of the bustling city from the Nagarkahana, the special music gallery, set above the main gate transported me to the Peshwa era! For a moment I was Peshwa Bajirao I, addressing his people from his citadel!! Whatever the case, I was getting more and more intrigued by this city of Wadas’…..
Dear Diary,
Summer holidays weren’t that boring after all! Initially I was sad, thinking that I would be stuck in the house and in Pune city for two months, while all my friends went on vacation to various interesting places. Well, stuck in the city I was, but not in the house!!
You must be wondering what that means. Let me explain. Since we could not leave on a vacation during the summer holidays, Mom and I chalked out an itinerary for our travels and activities within the city. We were new to the city and decided to explore and discover it over a vacation. Our schedule included not just visiting places of historical importance but also of contemporary significance. In the beginning I was a little apprehensive;
“Exploring the city through this chaotic traffic and pollution,” I had asked.
“Think of it as discovering gems. Historic gems and modern day landmark establishments,” Mom has encouraged.
Even before we moved to Pune, we had heard a lot about the city. That it’s called as the `Queen of the Deccan’ was very impressive. Although, I never really tried finding out why it was called so? This second largest city of Maharashtra state is also known as the `Oxford of the East’ because of the premier educational institutions located here, some of which were the first in the country.
The `Cultural capital of Maharashtra’ - Pune most certainly is. A few months stay in Pune is enough to teach you that! Particularly during Ganesh utsav. Festivals here are livened up by a number of cultural programmes including classical as well as folk and contemporary dance, drama and music. This tradition bound city continues to host and support events which have been coming down from generations; like the recently held Palki of Sant Jyaneshwar and Tukaram. I shall tell you more about it when I narrate my visit to Alandi!
Pune was also called a `Pensioners Paradise’. This was because many senior citizens from neighboring cities, mainly from Bombay, preferred the peace and quite of Pune to settle down post retirement. Nestled in the Sahayadri Mountains, 560 m above sea level, along the confluence of the rivers Mula and Mutta, this picturesque city is inviting even today. But this sobriquet, `pensioners paradise’ for this bustling city is certainly a misnomer today.
Pune is thriving with young people from all over the country. They are either studying in one of the many colleges or working at the innumerable number of Indian as well as Multinational companies. There is also a large contingent of international student population. Added to this is the vast migrant population of artisans and skilled labour, who in search of work have made Pune their home. Today Pune has a population of over 45 lakh.
Pune definitely holds a great future. As a 12 yr old, even I can sense the promise the city holds for youngsters like me, in terms of education and opportunities. But its glorious past I was yet to discover. I will share with you my experiences. It has been a long journey. Not just discovering a city, but also its soul. In the process, not just was I learning more about the city but I was also beginning to feel more at home here!
Chapter 2, Shaniwarwada
Dear Diary,
I must have gone past the Shaniwarwada at least a few times in the past one year of being in the city, but was never interested in visiting the historical monument. So, when Mom suggested that Shaniwarwada was the first destination on our `Pune Darshan’ itinerary, I wasn’t very excited. “Why, Shaniwarwada?” I had said.
“Let’s begin at the very core,” she said, “Shaniwarwada was not just the political and cultural hub of the Peshwas, but also was and still is, the very heart of the city. Geographically too, it is located in Central Pune.”
Very soon we were navigating our way through the most crowed part of the city in a rickshaw. Our driver tried hard to dodge past the cyclist and, pedestrians, who seemed to jump in front our rickshaw, like pop up screens on my computer! Mom’s decision to not take our car through this chaotic traffic made complete sense.
“Not bad at all!” I thought as I stood in front of the impressive Delhi Gate or the main gate made of metal and wood with large spikes, so that even the enemies elephants will not succeed in forcing open the doors. For a structure that began as a residential mansion or `Wada’ to house the royal families of the Peshwas, Shaniwarwada was colossal. “That’s because, successive Peshwas added this stone fortification walls, bastions and gates” explained Mom. She had read about the monument before coming. “It took two years to build, from 10th January 1730 to 22nd January 1732. The entire complex spreads over an area of 150mx 200m (6.25 acres) and housed at least a 1000 people.”
“In all there are 5 gates,” the monument caretaker had chipped in, seeing me admiring the main gate. “The Dilli Darwaja was used by the Peshwas to set out for all their military campaigns. The others are Mastani or Alibahadur Darwaja, Khidki Darwaja, Ganesh Darwaja, and Narayan Darwaja,” he concluded. When I smiled, he wanted to engage me further with the many interesting and mysterious `stories’ about the Wada. I said “some other time” and continued with my exploration. Actually, I had heard of a few `stories’ from my classmates. But facts, like the name Shaniwarwada, for the largest Wada in Pune, was because construction began on a Shaniwar or Saturday, were really unique!!
For a monument which was destroyed by many calamities, like the fire in 1828, there is a lot to see within Shaniwarwada. The surviving foundations of minor mansions, regal halls, stables, kitchens and toilets are all so interesting. From our readings we knew that the layout of the entire Wada was spread out around two central courtyards. The much talked about Hazare Karanje or the `thousand’ spouted fountain, in the shape of a 196 petal lotus not just spoke of the decorative style of the times, but also of the intricate water works of those days. I didn’t know, until the caretaker informed me, that the water source for the fountain was an underground conduit that came from a lake in Katraj, 18kms away!
It was good fun climbing up the steps and walking along the fort walls. The view of the bustling city from the Nagarkahana, the special music gallery, set above the main gate transported me to the Peshwa era! For a moment I was Peshwa Bajirao I, addressing his people from his citadel!! Whatever the case, I was getting more and more intrigued by this city of Wadas’…..
Monday, May 10, 2010
The Road to Ayutthaya
It’s not as if I have an aversion to all things contemporary. I’m in fact a keep observer of contemporary life and living wherever. But the worm of archaeology wriggles in me restlessly, and prods me to dig deeper into the roots of just about everything. And that’s what I wanted to do after my sojourns into the palaces and alleyways of 200 year old Bangkok. I was itching to travel and explore areas of Thai ancient history.
With an intriguing name like Ayutthaya, the old capital of Thai Kingdom was top on my list. Actually, unlike the lesser known Sukhothai, the first-ever city-sate of Siam nestled in the central plains of Thailand, Ayutthaya is so much `in-your-face’ in Bangkok. It’s basically because of the proximity to the city. It is in fact an easy day trip to the ancient capital. Sukhothai on the other hand is a good 6 hours road trip. Paintings of the Ayutthaya ruins amidst overgrown roots of ficus trees, on fabric and on paper are common souvenirs in Bangkok. But when compared to the millions that throng the amazingly beautiful beaches and islands of Thailand, these UNESCO World Heritage historical parks don’t attract many visitors. I was happy I visited these sites. But honestly the well maintained ruins at Ayutthaya with its manicured lawns and gardens come no where close to the rustic charm of Angkor Wat. But as they say, historical events and monuments should never be compared; both are unique in its respective time and space.
Both these historical parks are well equipped with museums, information centres, guides, rest rooms, and everything that is needed to update and refresh ones body, mind and soul. For that matter, traveling anywhere in Thailand is a tourists delight. It’s actually difficult to `rough-it-out’ in Thailand. You really have to be in the deep interiors of the northern highlands to experience true wilderness. It would seem that the smooth 6 lane highways with refreshment centres at every few kilometers, complete with restaurants, wash rooms and kids play area, runs into all corners of Thailand. Unlike in India, where a cross country National Highway road trip actually weaves through the cultural fabric and the associated hassles of the nation, in Thailand its just smooth roads and convenience kiosks at regular intervals. It is indeed a little disappointing for people looking out for some serious exploration into ethnic life and living in Thailand, without wandering into the deeper darker zones.
Besides, trips and treks would seem to be tailor made for individual tourists in this prime holiday country. One can choose to tramp it out or live royally at the classiest of hotels. As always, I chose the `middle path’; although adequately adventurous, I rarely take risks. I opted to cruise it to Ayutthaya, and it was well worth it. From the jetty at Bangkok, the cruise snakes up the Chao Phraya to the ruins. The cruise starts early morning, complete with welcome drink, delicious breakfast, Thai traditional music and dance performances and a sumptuous lunch spread ready to be devoured on the return journey in the afternoon.
Although Sukhothai is considered as the first city-sate of Thailand, it was the Kingdom at Ayutthaya in the 14th century that unified the farming and trading communities that existed along the Upper Chao Phraya Valley. Prior to this unification, Sukhothai was an emerging city-state under the control of Khmer Empire, consisting mainly of people from the Mon ethnic group. A little needs to be said about the history prior to the Sukhothai period in Thailand. And this refers to the Dwaravati period, which included a conglomeration of small and big settlements along both banks of the Upper Chao Phraya valley during the 6th – 13th Century. Like all legendary beginnings the first king of Dwaravati, is said to have established the first city, in the 5th century AD. But what is certain is that by the 10th Century most of these settlements came under the dominance of the Khmer Empire and was controlled from the ancient city of Lavo, identified with modern Lopburi town on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya. The landmark temple of this period, Prang Sam Yot in Lopburi, has striking resemblance to the temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The three Prangs or Gopuras are dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishu, and Shiva.
The Khmer dominance of the Chao Phraya valley was however challenged in the 1239 by the Tai governor of Sukhothai, and declared independence. Very soon Sukhothai grew under the able leadership of King Ramkhamhaeng, details of who are noted from the stone stele inscriptions now housed in the National Museum at Bangkok. There is much debate on the historical details of the origins of Sukhothai among historians. But Thai’s like to frame Sukhothai as their first city-sate of their nation and King Ramkhamhaeng as the nation builder of Thailand. It was during the 13th century that a gradual migration of the Tai people into the Upper Chao Phraya flood plains took place. However Sukhothai soon lost to the growing power and influence of Ayutthaya Kingdom in the South.
Ayutthaya flourished as a world renowned trading centre during the succeeding few centuries. But by the 18th Century, the kingdom began to disintegrate and provincial states began asserting their independence. Petty rivalries weakened the kingdom further. And to make matters worse, Ayutthaya got involved in the war between the Mon rulers and the Burmese along the southern border. The Kingdom supported the Mons, but lost the battle. The victorious Burmese army didn’t stop with the Mons. They charged ahead and invaded Ayutthaya and destroyed the city in 1767 AD. The Thai capital moved further south near Bangkok where it sustained and flourished with wise diplomatic ties with neighboring nations and beyond.
Well, I was not stuck with history alone. Like all tourists, I too did my round of islands and beaches. In fact, Thailand has a way of making you feel at home. Inspite of the obvious racial differences, its the common link in the Oriental threads of traditions, languages, food habits, leisure, and the arts , especially among the South-East Asians that comes to the forefront and envelops you. Maybe that’s why I survived my years in this foreign land.
With an intriguing name like Ayutthaya, the old capital of Thai Kingdom was top on my list. Actually, unlike the lesser known Sukhothai, the first-ever city-sate of Siam nestled in the central plains of Thailand, Ayutthaya is so much `in-your-face’ in Bangkok. It’s basically because of the proximity to the city. It is in fact an easy day trip to the ancient capital. Sukhothai on the other hand is a good 6 hours road trip. Paintings of the Ayutthaya ruins amidst overgrown roots of ficus trees, on fabric and on paper are common souvenirs in Bangkok. But when compared to the millions that throng the amazingly beautiful beaches and islands of Thailand, these UNESCO World Heritage historical parks don’t attract many visitors. I was happy I visited these sites. But honestly the well maintained ruins at Ayutthaya with its manicured lawns and gardens come no where close to the rustic charm of Angkor Wat. But as they say, historical events and monuments should never be compared; both are unique in its respective time and space.
Both these historical parks are well equipped with museums, information centres, guides, rest rooms, and everything that is needed to update and refresh ones body, mind and soul. For that matter, traveling anywhere in Thailand is a tourists delight. It’s actually difficult to `rough-it-out’ in Thailand. You really have to be in the deep interiors of the northern highlands to experience true wilderness. It would seem that the smooth 6 lane highways with refreshment centres at every few kilometers, complete with restaurants, wash rooms and kids play area, runs into all corners of Thailand. Unlike in India, where a cross country National Highway road trip actually weaves through the cultural fabric and the associated hassles of the nation, in Thailand its just smooth roads and convenience kiosks at regular intervals. It is indeed a little disappointing for people looking out for some serious exploration into ethnic life and living in Thailand, without wandering into the deeper darker zones.
Besides, trips and treks would seem to be tailor made for individual tourists in this prime holiday country. One can choose to tramp it out or live royally at the classiest of hotels. As always, I chose the `middle path’; although adequately adventurous, I rarely take risks. I opted to cruise it to Ayutthaya, and it was well worth it. From the jetty at Bangkok, the cruise snakes up the Chao Phraya to the ruins. The cruise starts early morning, complete with welcome drink, delicious breakfast, Thai traditional music and dance performances and a sumptuous lunch spread ready to be devoured on the return journey in the afternoon.
Although Sukhothai is considered as the first city-sate of Thailand, it was the Kingdom at Ayutthaya in the 14th century that unified the farming and trading communities that existed along the Upper Chao Phraya Valley. Prior to this unification, Sukhothai was an emerging city-state under the control of Khmer Empire, consisting mainly of people from the Mon ethnic group. A little needs to be said about the history prior to the Sukhothai period in Thailand. And this refers to the Dwaravati period, which included a conglomeration of small and big settlements along both banks of the Upper Chao Phraya valley during the 6th – 13th Century. Like all legendary beginnings the first king of Dwaravati, is said to have established the first city, in the 5th century AD. But what is certain is that by the 10th Century most of these settlements came under the dominance of the Khmer Empire and was controlled from the ancient city of Lavo, identified with modern Lopburi town on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya. The landmark temple of this period, Prang Sam Yot in Lopburi, has striking resemblance to the temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The three Prangs or Gopuras are dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishu, and Shiva.
The Khmer dominance of the Chao Phraya valley was however challenged in the 1239 by the Tai governor of Sukhothai, and declared independence. Very soon Sukhothai grew under the able leadership of King Ramkhamhaeng, details of who are noted from the stone stele inscriptions now housed in the National Museum at Bangkok. There is much debate on the historical details of the origins of Sukhothai among historians. But Thai’s like to frame Sukhothai as their first city-sate of their nation and King Ramkhamhaeng as the nation builder of Thailand. It was during the 13th century that a gradual migration of the Tai people into the Upper Chao Phraya flood plains took place. However Sukhothai soon lost to the growing power and influence of Ayutthaya Kingdom in the South.
Ayutthaya flourished as a world renowned trading centre during the succeeding few centuries. But by the 18th Century, the kingdom began to disintegrate and provincial states began asserting their independence. Petty rivalries weakened the kingdom further. And to make matters worse, Ayutthaya got involved in the war between the Mon rulers and the Burmese along the southern border. The Kingdom supported the Mons, but lost the battle. The victorious Burmese army didn’t stop with the Mons. They charged ahead and invaded Ayutthaya and destroyed the city in 1767 AD. The Thai capital moved further south near Bangkok where it sustained and flourished with wise diplomatic ties with neighboring nations and beyond.
Well, I was not stuck with history alone. Like all tourists, I too did my round of islands and beaches. In fact, Thailand has a way of making you feel at home. Inspite of the obvious racial differences, its the common link in the Oriental threads of traditions, languages, food habits, leisure, and the arts , especially among the South-East Asians that comes to the forefront and envelops you. Maybe that’s why I survived my years in this foreign land.
Sunday, May 2, 2010
When Gods travel....
So, once again Thailand is going through political unrest. These intermittent periods of turmoil, which also resulted in a series of coups, has been a common feature in the country since the early decades of the Cold War. A period of political stability was attained in the 1980’s. And finally the first Constitution of Thailand was drafted in 1997 and the first ever general elections conducted in 2001. But very soon it was the season for coups once again. So far these periods of political unrest hardly affected the general life in this country of peace loving people. In the 2006 coup, I remember how calm the political `unrest’ was. While everyone outside Thailand worried for their near and near ones in the country as they watched TV screens repeatedly flashing the same brief shots of tanks and the military marching into Bangkok city, the Thai’s in Bangkok were busy taking snapshots standing alongside army tanks and exchanging `peace’ roses with army personnel.
And for an economy thriving on tourism, Thailand is one of the safest places I have experienced. So after my initial few excited starry eyed days at the shopping malls I did the rounds of the heritage monuments located along the two banks of the Chao Phraya River. This included a long list of temples or Wats, as they are known in Thai. But except for Wat Arun, known as Temple of Dawn by the foreign tourist, I found the uniformity among these monuments very boring. Especially, the multitudes of small and big Wats within the vast expanse of the Grand Palace, which is not only the official residence of the King of Thailand, constructed in 1782, but also the venue for all royal ceremonies including coronations and funerals. See one Wat and you have seen them all. They are no doubt very `Grand’, like the very revered Wat dedicated to the Emerald Buddha; each and every structure within the Grand palace is gilded, elaborately decorated and meticulously maintained. But the sameness and relative newness of the monuments failed to enchant the archeologist in me. Instead I enjoyed getting lost in the smells and sights on the busy China town located next to the Palace.
All along my afternoon jaunts to these monuments, what actually tugged my mind was the umbilical cord that connected the cultures of this vast landmass called South East Asia. It may sound a bit pompous but the fact remains that rulers and traders from India had a big role in colonizing these regions. And along with them came our language, culture and traditions. Sanskrit is so neatly woven into the fabric of Thai language. But the pronunciation varies drastically and I found it an interesting exercise deciphering the Sanskrit root of words and names.
Speaking of cultural exchanges, the one most important set of guests that traveled to Suvarnabhoomi were our Hindu gods and goddesses! Thailand is a Buddhist country and follows the Theravada form of Buddhism, which incorporates a lot of Hindu beliefs and traditions, including animism and ancestor worship. Hence, although Wats are predominantly Buddhists, there are also temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma all over Thailand. Wat Arun, for instance, is dedicated to Aruna – the Hindu god of dawn. Like our very own temple gopuras, Wat Arun’s central 80 mt tall Prang or the Khmer style pagoda, symbolizes Mt Meru. Decorated with sea shells and bits of Chinese porcelain, it’s like a blazing tower reflecting the sun rays. Certain sculptural details are also common to all temples. Like the depiction of Nagas or serpents, on doorways, steps, candle stands, and railings surrounding the temple. Huge weapon bearing guardian Dwarapalas are also a must at the entrance to the temple. Hindu religious symbols are the same, except that they are dressed up in Thai traditional costumes and postures.
I was amazed to see the large numbers of devotees thronging the small corner temple at Erawan dedicated to Lord Brahma. Located on the main commercial street in Bangkok, this recent temple located at the site of an older temple is considered very holy. Similarly there are small roadside temples dedicated to Shiva and Ganesh. Most residential and commercial buildings have one or two miniature temples dedicated to Hindu Gods, built in wood or cement at the main entrance or in the Garden.
But even more far reaching is the influence that Indian gods, and related myths and epics have on the culture of South East Asia. Ramayana, for instance, is ingrained in most forms of performing arts, then be it dance-drama, or puppetry. In Thailand, while the main story remains identical to Valmiki’s Ramayana, the attire, including ornamental decoration, masks, and weapons, are typically local to the region. However, there are also interesting variations to the Ramleela performances in Indonesia, Malaysia, Lao, Cambodia, and Sri Lanka. Like the version in Sri Lanka, where Ravana the Asura king of Lanka, is depicted as the noble and just ruler and Rama of Ayodhya is the villain!! One could do extensive research on the diversity in narrative traditions of the Ramayana epic across South East Asia. Even more phenomenal is that most of the Ramayana performers in Indonesia and Malaysia are Muslims! I’ll come to that later. But certainly, when Gods travel across borders, they also become more tolerant and accommodating.
Similarly with festivals. Thai New Year is celebrated on Songkran day in the month of April. The word Songkran is derived from the Sanskrit sankrant, and symbolizes the same phenomenon of the Sun’s movement into the Makar or Aries zodiac; an occasion for Makarsankranti in the month of January in our country. It is believed that in ancient times this solar phenomenon was celebrated on the same day all over Southeast Asia. The next most important festival called the Loy Kratong in November coincides with the Tripurari Kartika Poornima in the month of Kartik on the Hindu calendar. Basically a celebration of the most auspicious full moon night of the twelfth lunar month or the winter solstice in the Christian calendar. Traditional festivals all over the world are rooted in seasonal changes, yet it’s amazing to note these close cultural ties between nations.
And for an economy thriving on tourism, Thailand is one of the safest places I have experienced. So after my initial few excited starry eyed days at the shopping malls I did the rounds of the heritage monuments located along the two banks of the Chao Phraya River. This included a long list of temples or Wats, as they are known in Thai. But except for Wat Arun, known as Temple of Dawn by the foreign tourist, I found the uniformity among these monuments very boring. Especially, the multitudes of small and big Wats within the vast expanse of the Grand Palace, which is not only the official residence of the King of Thailand, constructed in 1782, but also the venue for all royal ceremonies including coronations and funerals. See one Wat and you have seen them all. They are no doubt very `Grand’, like the very revered Wat dedicated to the Emerald Buddha; each and every structure within the Grand palace is gilded, elaborately decorated and meticulously maintained. But the sameness and relative newness of the monuments failed to enchant the archeologist in me. Instead I enjoyed getting lost in the smells and sights on the busy China town located next to the Palace.
All along my afternoon jaunts to these monuments, what actually tugged my mind was the umbilical cord that connected the cultures of this vast landmass called South East Asia. It may sound a bit pompous but the fact remains that rulers and traders from India had a big role in colonizing these regions. And along with them came our language, culture and traditions. Sanskrit is so neatly woven into the fabric of Thai language. But the pronunciation varies drastically and I found it an interesting exercise deciphering the Sanskrit root of words and names.
Speaking of cultural exchanges, the one most important set of guests that traveled to Suvarnabhoomi were our Hindu gods and goddesses! Thailand is a Buddhist country and follows the Theravada form of Buddhism, which incorporates a lot of Hindu beliefs and traditions, including animism and ancestor worship. Hence, although Wats are predominantly Buddhists, there are also temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma all over Thailand. Wat Arun, for instance, is dedicated to Aruna – the Hindu god of dawn. Like our very own temple gopuras, Wat Arun’s central 80 mt tall Prang or the Khmer style pagoda, symbolizes Mt Meru. Decorated with sea shells and bits of Chinese porcelain, it’s like a blazing tower reflecting the sun rays. Certain sculptural details are also common to all temples. Like the depiction of Nagas or serpents, on doorways, steps, candle stands, and railings surrounding the temple. Huge weapon bearing guardian Dwarapalas are also a must at the entrance to the temple. Hindu religious symbols are the same, except that they are dressed up in Thai traditional costumes and postures.
I was amazed to see the large numbers of devotees thronging the small corner temple at Erawan dedicated to Lord Brahma. Located on the main commercial street in Bangkok, this recent temple located at the site of an older temple is considered very holy. Similarly there are small roadside temples dedicated to Shiva and Ganesh. Most residential and commercial buildings have one or two miniature temples dedicated to Hindu Gods, built in wood or cement at the main entrance or in the Garden.
But even more far reaching is the influence that Indian gods, and related myths and epics have on the culture of South East Asia. Ramayana, for instance, is ingrained in most forms of performing arts, then be it dance-drama, or puppetry. In Thailand, while the main story remains identical to Valmiki’s Ramayana, the attire, including ornamental decoration, masks, and weapons, are typically local to the region. However, there are also interesting variations to the Ramleela performances in Indonesia, Malaysia, Lao, Cambodia, and Sri Lanka. Like the version in Sri Lanka, where Ravana the Asura king of Lanka, is depicted as the noble and just ruler and Rama of Ayodhya is the villain!! One could do extensive research on the diversity in narrative traditions of the Ramayana epic across South East Asia. Even more phenomenal is that most of the Ramayana performers in Indonesia and Malaysia are Muslims! I’ll come to that later. But certainly, when Gods travel across borders, they also become more tolerant and accommodating.
Similarly with festivals. Thai New Year is celebrated on Songkran day in the month of April. The word Songkran is derived from the Sanskrit sankrant, and symbolizes the same phenomenon of the Sun’s movement into the Makar or Aries zodiac; an occasion for Makarsankranti in the month of January in our country. It is believed that in ancient times this solar phenomenon was celebrated on the same day all over Southeast Asia. The next most important festival called the Loy Kratong in November coincides with the Tripurari Kartika Poornima in the month of Kartik on the Hindu calendar. Basically a celebration of the most auspicious full moon night of the twelfth lunar month or the winter solstice in the Christian calendar. Traditional festivals all over the world are rooted in seasonal changes, yet it’s amazing to note these close cultural ties between nations.
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