Surviving Gems.....of Pune
I thoroughly enjoyed my ride on Kaka’s scooter, through the narrow gullies of old Pune city, locating the Wadas in my list of `surviving gems’. I had plotted them on a city map of Pune. Although Kaka didn’t need the help of a map, studying the details in the map was a novel learning experience for me.
A walk through the old city division or peths of Pune, shows how the Wada legacy of Peshwai Pune, still dominates the city core. Many Wadas are being rented out in bits and pieces, the owners preferring to stay in smaller flats or bungalows, which require less maintenance. Many have crumbled down, or pulled down for new structures. But, there are some like the Vishrambaug Wada, which still stand strong and resplendent of its old glory. Built during1803 - 1809, this 3 storied Wada was the home of the last Peshwa, Bajirao II. Later on it housed the Poona Sanskrit College, the first British sponsored Educational Institution. Located in Sadashiv peth, it has beautiful columns and balconies. It now houses a museum and some government offices.
Another gem is the Nana Wada in Budhwar Peth. Built by Nana Phadnavis, it’s an architectural delight with wooden ceilings, railings, and chhatris or canopies. Nana was the chief administrator of the Peshwas. One of his most significant contributions has been the setting up of a drainage system for Pune, way back in the 1780’s!! Today a section of this building is being used as school and government offices. The Kesari Wada in Narayan Peth was built by the Gaikwads during the Peshwa rule. Stalwart freedom fighter Lokmanya Tilak started the Kesari and Mahratta Newspaper from here, and since then the Wada has been historically famous. Even today it houses the offices of Kesari, mementos of Tilak and the first National Flag unfurled by Madam Cama!!
Other than the few politically significant Wadas, there are many Wadas of local elites. Like the elaborate Mazumdar Wada, located near Shaniwarwada. It is 234 yrs old and the kitchen well’s water is still as clear and unpolluted!! Raste Wada at Rasta peth has a façade that resembles a Rajastahani Haveli. Purander Wada in Kasba Peth and Natu Wada at Shaniwar peth are equally fascinating. Wadas continued to be built till the end of the 19th century.
The growing British influence and control gave rise to social reforms and subsequently nationalist movements in the country. Eminent Indian reformers and leaders of the city made use of the versatile structure of the Wada, its courtyards and halls to hold meetings, gatherings, and debates. Wadas were used to house schools for girls, and for lower caste children, orphanages, widow homes, and offices. Even today, these institutions continue.
The foreground of Shaniwarwada was and still is an ideal space for public gatherings and programmes. That reminds me, Lokmanya Tilak held his first public Ganapati festival in the Vinchurkar Wada in 1894……..
1 comment:
Very good commentary and some startling facts that I didn't know of though our firm works with a lot of these buildings. One small correction - it not the drainage system but the water supply system that was set up by Nanasaheb Peshwa and not Nana Phadanvis. Nevertheless the blog has a fine flow and a tone that endears these crumbling edifices to the reader. Looking forward to reading more... write on.
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