On a Heritage trip in Kerala

( http://www.mathrubhumi.com/english/liststory.php?sub=579   Posted on: 08 Oct 2010  )

Bina Thomas Tharakan

A typical holiday to any touristy destination is replete with ways to satiate the `been there done that' itinerary made popular over the years by the tourism industry. Then be it a visit to a region of pristine natural beauty or some ancient ruins with charming structures or some town or city with famous historical monuments. Destinations get labeled into air-tight compartments of beauty, adventure and history respectively. And in the process often sidestep the not-so-spectacular in these compartments. And this is especially true of the vast repertoire of heritage structures at each and every city in our country, which are given a miss not just by visitors because these don't feature in destination catalogues and brochures, but sometimes even the locals are not aware they exist, because for them, they are too common place. But these heritage structures are just as interesting and
illuminating of a vintage past.

And God's own country - Kerala is no different. The `enchanting natural beauty' that Lord Curzon in 1900, and many other officials and travelers before him recorded, including Alberuni in the 11th century, Marcoplo in the 13th century, Ibn Batuta in the
14th century, and many more, is still the most powerful attraction to the state. Kerala's lush green mountains and valley's, the biodiversity therein, the exhilarating ride of its backwaters on fancy kettuvallams, relaxing stays at exclusive beach resorts, with visual delights of some of its performing art forms, and martial arts while enjoying an elaborate spread of authentic local cuisine are the chief highlights of a few days holiday in the state. And of course, add to this the growing popularity of Ayurvedic massages, and we are done.

But what often goes unnoticed and unheard of is Kerala's wealth of Heritage structures and the history that envelops them. This small stretch of coastal land has attracted traders and travelers for over 2000 yrs including the Greeks, the Romans, the Arabs and the Chinese resulting in not just a tumultuous and fascinating history of activities from ancient times, but also a series of colonization in the 500 years of recent history which included the Portuguese, French, Dutch, and British. The 13th and 14th centuries were periods of intense sea trade concentrated at Kollam, Kochi and Koyikode. The resultant integrative tradition of Kerala is well reflected in its structural heritage with regional variations which are very unique to the state. Although there are some structures of monumental dimensions from different periods in Kerala history, there are many more small and big heritage structures spread all over the state that often goes unnoticed.

Monuments like the protected forts in the Northern districts of Kerala like Kannur, Kasargod and Palakkad , some well know cathedrals and temples spread all over the state, the famous few state museums and the cluster of `star monuments' in the
Ernakulam District including the Dutch palace, Bolgatty palace, and the Jewish synagogue, are well known. But there are many more State Department of Archaeology protected heritage structures that are deserving of some attention and appreciation by
locals and tourists. Also the many stray `unprotected' gems from very recent colonial history that need not only be appreciated but also guarded from being swallowed under the waves of urban development.

Take palaces, for instance. There are many in and around Trivandrum. Within the premises of the old fortified town itself, spread around the famous Sri Padmanabha temple, the only temple that resembles the Dravidian `gopura' temple architecture style in Kerala, there are a series of fabulous royal residences and halls including the Puthen Maliga Palace Museum complex, constructed in the traditional Kerala `naalukettu' and `ettuketu' style architecture in wood and laterite, with multiple tiled roofs and fine decorative carvings. The structural compositions are unique in its elegance and reflect simplicity. Unlike the opulent and elaborate palaces in the Deccan or North India, these structures are restrained in the use of space. Many of such quaint royal mansions all over Kerala now house museums, including the grand Hill Palace in Ernakulam. The Koyikkal Palace museum, on the outskirts of Trivandrum is one such charming structure, complete with a central courtyard, a pond, shrine, and even a secret tunneled passage!! The architectural features of these structures, including the old churches, temples and
mosques in Kerala are important markers of a peripheral sub-culture away from the strongholds of contemporary dominant ruling powers of the times in the Deccan and Tamil Nadu.

Most of these buildings are not more than 400 years old. Or they house an ancient core rebuilt several times. In a tropical zone like Kerala, it's difficult for structures made in wood, mud and laterite to sustain the vagaries of weather. Renovation was also a
means to strengthen the structures. For example the Cheraman Perumal mosque in Trissur district, believed to be the oldest mosque in India, dating to the 7th century was renovated several times. Similarly the magnificent Tali Temple of Koyikod, dated to the 12th century has undergone renovations over the centuries, including the addition of painted floral patterns on the outer walls of the inner shrine. But the sculptures and carvings on the lintels of the sanctum sanctorum hasn't been tampered with.

Then there are the famous bungalows in the major towns of the state which often go unnoticed. Like the `town house' Vasco de Gama resided in at Kochi till his death in 1520 AD. Or the one in Kannur District which was occupied by Dr. Herman Gundert, the revered scholar and lexicographer from 1839, for a period of 20 years, while he worked on the very first Malayalam dictionary.

Equally enchanting are the Early Historic rock cut caves at different parts of Kerala. Believed to be remnants of Buddhist and Jaina faiths prevalent in Early historic Kerala, most of these now house shrines dedicated to Hindu gods and goddesses. An even more ancient past is showcased at Rock shelter petrogylps or engravings in the districts of Wayanad and Idukki skirting Kerala's Eastern Ghats and the vast numbers of Megalithic monuments spread all over the state.

Even more fascinating are the snippets of information from local lore attached to many natural features. For instance, how often does a traveler to Koyikod hear of the huge boulder called Velliamkallu, 10 km into the sea from Payyoli beach. Local people will tell you that during the Portuguese rule, murderers and serious law offenders were executed here and thrown off the rock into the sea. Or that the cluster of huge rock boulders called Jatayupara at Kollam district, was where Jatayu, the vulture in Ramayana, fell wounded while trying to stop Ravana from abducting Sita to Lanka. Some even say that Hanuman
took his final leap to Lanka atop this hill!! Or of the interesting debate that surrounds the journey of the Chinese fishing nets which people love to watch by the sea shore at Fort Kochi Whether the idea of such fishing nets was a direct import from China or did the idea travel around in other regions of South East Asia before reaching the Kerala coast? And that too only at Fort Cochin!!!

And for the interested, all it takes is an exploratory drive down the coastal NH 17 and 47 with a few detours into the mid lands of this thin strip of land. It's a pity when heritage is thought to be only that what is showcased. At the heart of our modern cities are very old streets and bazaars with charming public and private buildings which are soon fading out giving way to the new. Only a planned `heritage walk' through these mazes will enliven its historic value.

(Bina Thomas is an archaeologist working on heritage issues. She can be contacted at binatho@gmail.com )

The Maya Effect....

The Maya effect

Maya was a sensual delight. The men on campus would agree. Men, young, not so young and of course the old. Not many girls would second that though. To them, there was definitely nothing attractive about her choice of clothes, mostly smudged and crumpled or the cheap unwashed cloth bags she carried to stuff a crazy assortment of things or the blue bata slippers covered in dust and paint. But secretly they boiled at the effect Maya had on men. Because they knew she was one hell of an enchantress. There was something about the careless way she draped her sari and slung her bag, combined with her loosely knotted long black tresses, and amused smile that lighted up her kohl smeared eyes till they shorn so bright that it set many a male hearts and groins on fire.

Mesmerizing Maya was sparklingly intelligent too and a fantastic friend to have….....

Soul searching in France

Soul searching in France
Work related travel to world famous tourist destinations can be quite frustrating if the only breather in your meeting packed schedule are the short trips in the elevator when you journey between your room and conference hall in the same hotel building! Why go to far away exotic cities if all you get is a few hours to explore the city at the fag end of several days of brain-drain? However, the recent trend of `whisking’ delegates, the moment they land at international airports to never-heard-of country side destinations located less than a couple of hours drive from major cities is a delightful change.

European villages, in the summer months, are a special treat in this regard. Modern and rustic at the same time, these tiny centres are especially idyllic and charming. One such lovely place is Dourdan, a little commune or French village near Paris, where I spent some days, officially attending a meeting, and unofficially discovering a wealth of happiness. Located on the river Orge, Dourdan left a lasting impression on me. And it wasn't just because of the few heritage structures, but because of the sights, smells, and sounds snugly wrapped withing an hours walk of Dourdan. Leisurely evening walks through streets lined with quaint houses with pretty home-gardens, stopping by at sleepy shops and bakeries selling local and often ingenious food and other sundry items, or simply hang out at the cobbled market square from the Middle Ages.... the feeling can be both therapeutic after a grueling day, as well as gift you with a host of pleasant memories of a place you might never consider visiting otherwise.

However, a `must-visit' at Dourdan is the 13th Century  church and a castle, both of which underwent several phases of destruction and restoration before these were turned into a prison in the 18th century. The surrounding thin forest cover was once a favorite hunting ground among royalty, and presently adds to Dourdan’s pristine natural beauty.

Bina Thomas is a travel and heritage writer based in Trivandrum ( binatho@gmail.co )

Midsummer Nights at Norway

Midsummer Nights at Norway




Watching the sun set at 11pm and show up again at 2am can be a very novel experience for people living along latitudes towards the centre of our planet. While I found this the most amazing phenomenon while traveling in Norway, for people living closer to the Artic in the North Pole and Antarctic in the South Pole, it’s something they have got used to.



There are large seasonal variations in daylight throughout the year in this `Land of the Midnight Sun’. The complete absence of a night sky in the summer months of June-July, when the sun barely manages to descend beneath the horizon, can be a weird feeling, jeopardizing our tropical concept of mornings and evenings. Conversely, the sun refuses to show up during the winter months of November to January. Add to this the natural occurrence of the Northern lights in the inky backdrop of the polar night sky and the surreal experience is complete. This celestial display, seen as dancing sheets or flames of light, in varied hues of green, yellow, red and a rare blue, is truly astounding.



I’m yet to witness this mystical spectacle. So far, I have managed to avoid the freezing Norway winters, not only because I dislike insulated living shuttling between heated rooms and heated modes of transport, but also because I miss that life sustaining radiance of the suns rays, of which even a glimmer is not expected on some days of the Norwegian winter months.



Wandering through this beautiful land of fiords, it was these atmospheric phenomenons, typical to high latitude regions that kept intriguing me. This year the summer solstice, or the longest day of the year, was on 23rd June. In Norway, just as in other regions of Scandinavia, it’s a very important time of the year with interesting peasant traditions, some that even pre-date Christianity.

The thing with memories: Part II

“A hand reached out for me from over my head as I stood and fumbled on the final few narrow rickety steps leading to the third floor of the 150 year old mansion.” It was grandma narrating her wedding night to me, her grand daughter. Her real life episodes were a perfect timeout during the month long study leave before the final school year exam.



“One hand grabbed the glass of milk from my shaking hands," she continued, "and with a sweep of the other, landed me on the mud floor. The wooden rafters creaked and I felt my entire being sway as I tumbled into your grandpas’ arms,” giggled grandma, turning all coy at the very memory of her first night.


Priya shuddhered and had goose pimples all over. Grandmas’ rewinds were always fantastic but this one was the best! In an instant Priya’s algebra jogged mind was abuzz with a scene from a period film. The star cast – her grandparents. The location – her ancestral home; an imposing three floored structure. Her memories of the shining black floor of the long rectangular verandha reflected a piece of history from her ancestry, her roots. The nostalgia of weaving circles around the 12 large wooden pillars lining the verandha, on hot lazy afternoons came spinning back. The joy of carefree frolicking through the maze of a `hundred’ rooms, among the flurry of relatives and cousins still dazed her.


“And then….” asked Priya with expectations of a Mills and Boons scene recount.

“….and then what?” repeated grandma, “the two of us slept like good children” she answered with the same twinkle in her eyes, which long ago must have set her grandpas’ heart on fire. Priya wanted to coo `aww’ `so sweet’ `how romantic’ but knew very well that her grandma wouldn’t approve of it….because according to her it was very unbecoming of young women to be so vocal of their feelings.


For the rest of the break time, till Priya resumed her exam studies, her mind traveled to another state, another town, to the junction at the market place where her ancestral home stood. It was along the national highway, an important trade route from centuries ago. The wood and mud structure with stone foundation, was built by her fathers forefathers. The third floor was the designated `wedding chamber’ for the latest newly weds in the family. It was their bedroom till a fresh wedding in the house took place.................