Sunday, October 31, 2010

Surviving Gems.... The Wadas of Pune II

Surviving Gems.....of Pune

I thoroughly enjoyed my ride on Kaka’s scooter, through the narrow gullies of old Pune city, locating the Wadas in my list of `surviving gems’. I had plotted them on a city map of Pune. Although Kaka didn’t need the help of a map, studying the details in the map was a novel learning experience for me.




A walk through the old city division or peths of Pune, shows how the Wada legacy of Peshwai Pune, still dominates the city core. Many Wadas are being rented out in bits and pieces, the owners preferring to stay in smaller flats or bungalows, which require less maintenance. Many have crumbled down, or pulled down for new structures. But, there are some like the Vishrambaug Wada, which still stand strong and resplendent of its old glory. Built during1803 - 1809, this 3 storied Wada was the home of the last Peshwa, Bajirao II. Later on it housed the Poona Sanskrit College, the first British sponsored Educational Institution. Located in Sadashiv peth, it has beautiful columns and balconies. It now houses a museum and some government offices.



Another gem is the Nana Wada in Budhwar Peth. Built by Nana Phadnavis, it’s an architectural delight with wooden ceilings, railings, and chhatris or canopies. Nana was the chief administrator of the Peshwas. One of his most significant contributions has been the setting up of a drainage system for Pune, way back in the 1780’s!! Today a section of this building is being used as school and government offices. The Kesari Wada in Narayan Peth was built by the Gaikwads during the Peshwa rule. Stalwart freedom fighter Lokmanya Tilak started the Kesari and Mahratta Newspaper from here, and since then the Wada has been historically famous. Even today it houses the offices of Kesari, mementos of Tilak and the first National Flag unfurled by Madam Cama!!



Other than the few politically significant Wadas, there are many Wadas of local elites. Like the elaborate Mazumdar Wada, located near Shaniwarwada. It is 234 yrs old and the kitchen well’s water is still as clear and unpolluted!! Raste Wada at Rasta peth has a façade that resembles a Rajastahani Haveli. Purander Wada in Kasba Peth and Natu Wada at Shaniwar peth are equally fascinating. Wadas continued to be built till the end of the 19th century.



The growing British influence and control gave rise to social reforms and subsequently nationalist movements in the country. Eminent Indian reformers and leaders of the city made use of the versatile structure of the Wada, its courtyards and halls to hold meetings, gatherings, and debates. Wadas were used to house schools for girls, and for lower caste children, orphanages, widow homes, and offices. Even today, these institutions continue.


The foreground of Shaniwarwada was and still is an ideal space for public gatherings and programmes. That reminds me, Lokmanya Tilak held his first public Ganapati festival in the Vinchurkar Wada in 1894……..

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

The Wadas of Pune

Wadas of Pune




After visiting Shaniwarwada, the fortified citadel of the Peshwas since 18th century, I decided to explore the city further. At a bustling market place, I got off the rickshaw. And, what do I see! Another magnificent heritage building in dark wood, with beautiful carvings! It was the Vishrambaug Wada and I was struck by its quaint beauty.



“The second Wada for the day,” I said aloud to myself. “Why stop at two, madam? There are many more Wadas in amchi Pune,” said the fruit seller, watching me looking at the Wada, unmindful of the chaotic traffic around me. “I too stay in an old Wada. Would you like to visit it? Of course, it’s not stately as the Vishrambaug Wada,” he invited. This was getting interesting. That was it. I had to learn more about the Wadas of Pune before visiting a few of them.



The next couple of days, I gathered as much information as I could on the Wadas of Pune. Just as every region has a distinctive form of architecture, which is largely determined by the climate and building material available locally; as cities prospered, traditional styles for residential complexes to accommodate larger households, came into being. Like the havelis in Rajasthan, or the nallu kettus of Kerala, in Pune, it was the Wada style architecture.



Wadas are dwellings made of, brick and lime plaster with a timber frame. Raised on a high stone plinth, they are generally structured around two courtyards with beautiful facades, balconies and windows. The inner rooms and courtyard, was appropriated by the women folk of the household. It consisted of a large kitchen, store room, prayer room, a birthing room, granary, and cowshed. It also houses the well. The outer courtyard, verandah or osari, rooms, and halls were reserved for guests, meetings with business associates, and working space for accountants and clerks. Most Wadas have a typical heavy wooden door of wooden or metal frame with a smaller opening or dindi for every day use. The doorway has a carved strip with auspicious symbols, known as ganesh pati. They have raised devdis or guard rooms on both sides inside the entrance.



Although the Wada form of construction began in the Maratha period itself, it was during the Peshwa times, and particularly during the later half of the 18th century, that it gained maximum popularity as a residential structure or house form. Traditionally, these are not grand avenues, but basic and functional. But as the city and its affluent community grew, the Wadas flowered into beautiful and luxurious mansions with large durbar halls, intricately carved wooden columns and ceilings, with ivory, copper and gold inlays. Large mirrors, glass paintings, and chandeliers adorned the rooms in the front. Fountains and tulsi shrines in the first and second courtyards respectively, became a common feature. The number of floor levels increased from two to sometimes even seven!



With the onset of Colonial rule in Pune in early 19th Century, the wealthy Puneites had to curb there extravagant lifestyles. Income from friends and relatives in power during Peshwai times, and other dubious sources reduced. Maintenance of large residential Wadas became difficult. With the breaking down of the joint family system, most Wadas ran into further neglect. Many of them were and still are rented out in bits and pieces.



Many Wadas have crumbled down, or pulled down to make way for newer construction. But there are some which still stand strong and resplendent of its old glory. Some of the wells in these old Wadas are still in use, its water just as clear, and unpolluted. I will write about them later. Also, how these Wadas were used for public welfare by the Reformists of the 19th century, and later by freedom fighters.



A walk through the old lanes or peths of Pune will give adequate proof of how the Wada legacy of Peshwai Pune, still dominates the city core. And how they were an integral part of the cities urban growth. Today, when I see how newer constructions dwarf these architectural gems, I feel very sad. Change is inevitable, but it should also make space to conserve our heritage…….

Sunday, September 19, 2010

A leap into Lanka

Monsoon raced me to Lanka. When I boarded the flight at a blazing Trivandrum airport, little did I foresee a turbulent ride through a sky heavy with dark rain clouds. As I joined the rushing passengers, relieved to have landed safely after the rattling experience on board, I wondered what all the haste was for. And the reason dawned on me, only as I got out of the small yet smart airport at Colombo. It was the impending rains. Colombo was pitching dark under great black clouds hovering above, threatening to unleash a storm. Indeed, I had won the race.



My friends warm hug, with a `u got the seasons first rains with you’ greeting made me feel special. It’s a lovely feeling when you are held responsible for the good things in people’s lives. I felt deeply welcome into this tiny country nestled close to mine. The several weeks I took to ponder on my decision to travel to a militant riddled tense country like Sri Lanka had paid off. I had dared only because my visit coincided with one of those intermittent peace spells in the discord between the state and the separatist group demanding an independent Tamil Elam in the North and East of the island.



As we left the airport and sped through the slushy puddles of red lateritic gravel, I grew even closer to the land. The similarity is binding. The landscape, the people, their attire, the weather all reminded me of the very familiar western coast of India. Colombo could have been anywhere in Goa or Kerala!



Many call it the `tear drop’ shaped island. Perhaps true; considering the harrowing years of civil war the country, officially known as the Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka, has been through since 1983. But for me this small island nation, less than a stones throw from the Indian coastline, separated by the Gulf of Mannar and the Palk Strait, is like that orange coral pendent that has come loose from the Indian peninsular garland. The trailing chain of 30 km long natural limestone shoal formation so clearly visible under the very shallow sea between the countries can well be remains of that ancient bond. Colonial British reports document it as natural bridge connecting the island to the Indian landmass, which subsequently was destroyed by a storm in the 15th century. Now known to the modern world as Adams Bridge, there are even earlier references to this bridge by 9th century Persian geographer Ibn Khordadebh and mathematician and astronomer Alberuni in 11th century. The northern point of this bridge starts at Danushkodi, in Tamil Nadu’s Rameshwaram Island and ends at the northern end of Mannar Island on the northwestern coast of Srilanka.



For the believer however, it is the remains of the bridge that Lord Rama constructed to cross over to Lanka, to rescue his beloved wife held captive by Ravana, the Asura king of Lanka. It is interesting how myths get woven into natural geological formations. An hours drive to the north of Trivandrum town along the state highway is Jatayupara, a cluster of huge rock boulders. Local tradition has it that Jatayu, the vulture friend of Lord Rama, fell wounded on this rock, while trying to prevent Ravana from kidnapping Sita to Lanka. It is also added that, this is the rock from where Hanuman took his final leap into Lanka.



Whatever the connection, the bonding between the two nations, is very intimate. It is reflected in every aspect of its culture and tradition, including language, script, and cuisine which is akin to states in peninsular India. How much ever a Malayalee or a Tamilian tries to pick on state-wise cultural affinities in Sri Lankan food, to me it seemed a unique blend of gastronomical delights from all over peninsular India. Western flavours in food habits and modernity in traditional costumes however are the remnants of the more recent colonial influences left by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British since the 16th century. This even includes the name Ceylon, the official name for the island till 1972, given by the Portuguese.



By virtue of its location in the middle of the busy Indian Ocean trade route, the island was frequented by traders from the western and eastern world since ancient times. In fact, the demand for Srilankan cinnamon among the Egyptians is believed to date as far back as 1500 BC. Early Historic Roman trade in Peninsular India extended into Sri Lanka also. The seven UNESCO World heritage Sites are a testimony to the civilizational scale the kingdoms on the island had achieved more than 2000 years ago. These are all located in and around the Cultural Triangle which links ancient Anuradhapura, Medieval Polonnaruwa and the Kandy of recent history. So also are the ancient records in the Pali chronicles especially the Mahavamsa and the Dipavamsa, epigraphical records, and stone inscriptions which give plenty of details of the early historic period in Srilanka.



As effects of coastal trade spread deeper into the island, the indigenous population, known as the Veddas, is said to have moved into the hilly interiors and formed their own kingdom with Kandy as its capital. When the British East India Company colonized the island in 1802, Kandy was a separate Kingdom. Soon the Kingdom fell and Colombo became the administrative centre of colonial rule. Besides the interests in the islands timber, gemstones and other mineral resources, British colonial rule established a series of plantations in rubber, tea, coffee, sugar, cinnamon and indigo on the once densely forested hills and plains. The workforces at these plantations were brought largely from Tamil Nadu. Today Tamils form more than 15% of ethnic minority in Sri Lanka. While Kandy and its surrounding regions form the traditional core of Sinhala population, the regions around Jaffna in the north is the Tamil nerve centre.



I would have loved to travel into the hinterland of these core areas. But back home, I had pledged I wouldn’t wander around unaccompanied in this country. So I left it to my friends to take me to my one and only grand agenda in Sri Lanka – a few days at the Cultural triangle.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Trivandrum Heritage....

http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/article519399.ece

U nder the guise of ‘development,' among the many things disappearing from the city are heritage buildings. It's sad to see some of these gems being chomped up gluttonously by JCBs, paving way to new swanky showrooms, apartments and mansions.




As compared to its neighbouring states, Kerala doesn't have too many grand structures in stone. Instead it has its own unique style of architecture. Modest and elegant in appearance, they are a class apart in grandeur. These are predominantly made of laterite and wood. Unfortunately both of these building materials cannot withstand the vagaries of time, without proper care in a tropical region like Kerala. For the same reasons, the State has only a few surviving monuments that can be dated to ancient and early historic period, and they are mostly made in stone or are those where the ancient core of the structure has been rebuilt several times.



But what the State has in abundance are buildings that were built in the last 300 years. These include various small and big palaces, official buildings, many temples, churches, mosques and some forts. Most of them were renovated and maintained over time by the ruling kings of the Cochin and Travancore royal families and the Madras Presidency in Malabar.



And the capital city of Thiruvananthapuram is strewn with fine examples of structures built in the last few centuries. After the formation of the princely state of Travancore by Marthanda Varma (1729-58 AD), the capital of the State was shifted to Thiruvananthapuram in 1790 AD, from the earlier headquarters at Padmanabhapuram, now in Kanyakumari district of Tamil Nadu. Fort walls were erected to guard the seat of power.



Thus came into being the East Fort with the imposing Padmanabhaswamy temple at its centre. The temple is the finest example of Dravidian temple architecture within Kerala, and in all probability has a much ancient core. The precincts of the East Fort, has a wealth of architectural features criss-crossing the maze of old lanes and by lanes. This includes the amazing Kuthiramalika palace, the royal residence consisting of a series of ornately carved nalukettu buildings.



The fortified city also has the temple pond, many smaller Hindu shrines, religious institutions and shalai supported by the royal house, several minor palaces, mansions, agraharams (street or complex of Brahmin households), houses, and bazars, which are all a fine example of town planning and architecture of the period.



The other focal point around which the city grew 200 years ago was Palayam or the Cantonment area. It formed the hub for public offices, educational centres, museum and even a zoo. Forking out from this nodal point many areas grew into prominence, one such being the road leading to the Kowdiar Palace, the present main residence of the royal family of erstwhile Travancore.



Besides these, the city and its outskirt are dotted with fine examples of heritage architecture. But except for the religious structures, and a couple of prime palaces, most of the structures are neglected, including the fort walls. It's desperately in need of proper survey and documentation. Monitoring of new construction activities within the fort area can save it from the growing chaos. With restoration work that doesn't tinker with the age old charm, and also strengthens these heritage structures, there are various innovative ways these buildings can be put to use. But before that citizens, especially the younger generation, need to know of this wealth of heritage or `paitrukam' around them.



Bina Thomas
(The author is a consultant archaeologist)

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

The thing with memories….

K Kumar loved digging up the past. After all he was an Archeologist. And an accomplished one at that. But this particular digging up, he was not good at. I mean..... the digging up of memories. Its lanes and gullies. These lanes would surge in front of KK like endless alleyways with thousands of tiny by-lanes into either side. By-lanes opening into a million houses. Houses with innumerable rooms. And rooms with zillions of people. And KK would stand burdened and exasperated at the entrance of the alleyways, without even daring to turn into one of them. Even the thought of peeking into the rooms was too unnerving.



He would heave and appear faint at the very thought of rummaging through the pile of memories. His adams apple would do a fervent hop skip and jump under the fine skin of his skinny throat. There were just too many of those memories. Or perhaps they had all piled up because he had ceased to disband them long ago. You know, things get easier if you refresh or revive memories from time to time. Because, you cannot actually shut them up. But KK always preferred to bottle them up into pickles he never wanted to taste. Hoping that it would dissolve in its own acidic juices and finally go rancid and perhaps evaporate and disappear with age.



Well, it wasn’t to be so. Because, here she was. Right in front of him. Ejecting him out of his smooth train journey of life and landing painfully on a platform he’d said farewell to 20 years ago. Everything came tumbling out of his memory closet within an instance. His head throbbed, his stomach churned….. but the memory engine continued revving.



He was still reeling from the effect when she suddenly enveloped him into a warm friendly hug, and said `Hi KK. It’s been so very long’

Was it the sudden embrace of a woman, and a beautiful one at that; or whatever, KK had a pleasant feeling slid all over him……