Chapter 1, Summer Holidays
Dear Diary,
Summer holidays weren’t that boring after all! Initially I was sad, thinking that I would be stuck in the house and in Pune city for two months, while all my friends went on vacation to various interesting places. Well, stuck in the city I was, but not in the house!!
You must be wondering what that means. Let me explain. Since we could not leave on a vacation during the summer holidays, Mom and I chalked out an itinerary for our travels and activities within the city. We were new to the city and decided to explore and discover it over a vacation. Our schedule included not just visiting places of historical importance but also of contemporary significance. In the beginning I was a little apprehensive;
“Exploring the city through this chaotic traffic and pollution,” I had asked.
“Think of it as discovering gems. Historic gems and modern day landmark establishments,” Mom has encouraged.
Even before we moved to Pune, we had heard a lot about the city. That it’s called as the `Queen of the Deccan’ was very impressive. Although, I never really tried finding out why it was called so? This second largest city of Maharashtra state is also known as the `Oxford of the East’ because of the premier educational institutions located here, some of which were the first in the country.
The `Cultural capital of Maharashtra’ - Pune most certainly is. A few months stay in Pune is enough to teach you that! Particularly during Ganesh utsav. Festivals here are livened up by a number of cultural programmes including classical as well as folk and contemporary dance, drama and music. This tradition bound city continues to host and support events which have been coming down from generations; like the recently held Palki of Sant Jyaneshwar and Tukaram. I shall tell you more about it when I narrate my visit to Alandi!
Pune was also called a `Pensioners Paradise’. This was because many senior citizens from neighboring cities, mainly from Bombay, preferred the peace and quite of Pune to settle down post retirement. Nestled in the Sahayadri Mountains, 560 m above sea level, along the confluence of the rivers Mula and Mutta, this picturesque city is inviting even today. But this sobriquet, `pensioners paradise’ for this bustling city is certainly a misnomer today.
Pune is thriving with young people from all over the country. They are either studying in one of the many colleges or working at the innumerable number of Indian as well as Multinational companies. There is also a large contingent of international student population. Added to this is the vast migrant population of artisans and skilled labour, who in search of work have made Pune their home. Today Pune has a population of over 45 lakh.
Pune definitely holds a great future. As a 12 yr old, even I can sense the promise the city holds for youngsters like me, in terms of education and opportunities. But its glorious past I was yet to discover. I will share with you my experiences. It has been a long journey. Not just discovering a city, but also its soul. In the process, not just was I learning more about the city but I was also beginning to feel more at home here!
Chapter 2, Shaniwarwada
Dear Diary,
I must have gone past the Shaniwarwada at least a few times in the past one year of being in the city, but was never interested in visiting the historical monument. So, when Mom suggested that Shaniwarwada was the first destination on our `Pune Darshan’ itinerary, I wasn’t very excited. “Why, Shaniwarwada?” I had said.
“Let’s begin at the very core,” she said, “Shaniwarwada was not just the political and cultural hub of the Peshwas, but also was and still is, the very heart of the city. Geographically too, it is located in Central Pune.”
Very soon we were navigating our way through the most crowed part of the city in a rickshaw. Our driver tried hard to dodge past the cyclist and, pedestrians, who seemed to jump in front our rickshaw, like pop up screens on my computer! Mom’s decision to not take our car through this chaotic traffic made complete sense.
“Not bad at all!” I thought as I stood in front of the impressive Delhi Gate or the main gate made of metal and wood with large spikes, so that even the enemies elephants will not succeed in forcing open the doors. For a structure that began as a residential mansion or `Wada’ to house the royal families of the Peshwas, Shaniwarwada was colossal. “That’s because, successive Peshwas added this stone fortification walls, bastions and gates” explained Mom. She had read about the monument before coming. “It took two years to build, from 10th January 1730 to 22nd January 1732. The entire complex spreads over an area of 150mx 200m (6.25 acres) and housed at least a 1000 people.”
“In all there are 5 gates,” the monument caretaker had chipped in, seeing me admiring the main gate. “The Dilli Darwaja was used by the Peshwas to set out for all their military campaigns. The others are Mastani or Alibahadur Darwaja, Khidki Darwaja, Ganesh Darwaja, and Narayan Darwaja,” he concluded. When I smiled, he wanted to engage me further with the many interesting and mysterious `stories’ about the Wada. I said “some other time” and continued with my exploration. Actually, I had heard of a few `stories’ from my classmates. But facts, like the name Shaniwarwada, for the largest Wada in Pune, was because construction began on a Shaniwar or Saturday, were really unique!!
For a monument which was destroyed by many calamities, like the fire in 1828, there is a lot to see within Shaniwarwada. The surviving foundations of minor mansions, regal halls, stables, kitchens and toilets are all so interesting. From our readings we knew that the layout of the entire Wada was spread out around two central courtyards. The much talked about Hazare Karanje or the `thousand’ spouted fountain, in the shape of a 196 petal lotus not just spoke of the decorative style of the times, but also of the intricate water works of those days. I didn’t know, until the caretaker informed me, that the water source for the fountain was an underground conduit that came from a lake in Katraj, 18kms away!
It was good fun climbing up the steps and walking along the fort walls. The view of the bustling city from the Nagarkahana, the special music gallery, set above the main gate transported me to the Peshwa era! For a moment I was Peshwa Bajirao I, addressing his people from his citadel!! Whatever the case, I was getting more and more intrigued by this city of Wadas’…..
Friday, May 14, 2010
Monday, May 10, 2010
The Road to Ayutthaya
It’s not as if I have an aversion to all things contemporary. I’m in fact a keep observer of contemporary life and living wherever. But the worm of archaeology wriggles in me restlessly, and prods me to dig deeper into the roots of just about everything. And that’s what I wanted to do after my sojourns into the palaces and alleyways of 200 year old Bangkok. I was itching to travel and explore areas of Thai ancient history.
With an intriguing name like Ayutthaya, the old capital of Thai Kingdom was top on my list. Actually, unlike the lesser known Sukhothai, the first-ever city-sate of Siam nestled in the central plains of Thailand, Ayutthaya is so much `in-your-face’ in Bangkok. It’s basically because of the proximity to the city. It is in fact an easy day trip to the ancient capital. Sukhothai on the other hand is a good 6 hours road trip. Paintings of the Ayutthaya ruins amidst overgrown roots of ficus trees, on fabric and on paper are common souvenirs in Bangkok. But when compared to the millions that throng the amazingly beautiful beaches and islands of Thailand, these UNESCO World Heritage historical parks don’t attract many visitors. I was happy I visited these sites. But honestly the well maintained ruins at Ayutthaya with its manicured lawns and gardens come no where close to the rustic charm of Angkor Wat. But as they say, historical events and monuments should never be compared; both are unique in its respective time and space.
Both these historical parks are well equipped with museums, information centres, guides, rest rooms, and everything that is needed to update and refresh ones body, mind and soul. For that matter, traveling anywhere in Thailand is a tourists delight. It’s actually difficult to `rough-it-out’ in Thailand. You really have to be in the deep interiors of the northern highlands to experience true wilderness. It would seem that the smooth 6 lane highways with refreshment centres at every few kilometers, complete with restaurants, wash rooms and kids play area, runs into all corners of Thailand. Unlike in India, where a cross country National Highway road trip actually weaves through the cultural fabric and the associated hassles of the nation, in Thailand its just smooth roads and convenience kiosks at regular intervals. It is indeed a little disappointing for people looking out for some serious exploration into ethnic life and living in Thailand, without wandering into the deeper darker zones.
Besides, trips and treks would seem to be tailor made for individual tourists in this prime holiday country. One can choose to tramp it out or live royally at the classiest of hotels. As always, I chose the `middle path’; although adequately adventurous, I rarely take risks. I opted to cruise it to Ayutthaya, and it was well worth it. From the jetty at Bangkok, the cruise snakes up the Chao Phraya to the ruins. The cruise starts early morning, complete with welcome drink, delicious breakfast, Thai traditional music and dance performances and a sumptuous lunch spread ready to be devoured on the return journey in the afternoon.
Although Sukhothai is considered as the first city-sate of Thailand, it was the Kingdom at Ayutthaya in the 14th century that unified the farming and trading communities that existed along the Upper Chao Phraya Valley. Prior to this unification, Sukhothai was an emerging city-state under the control of Khmer Empire, consisting mainly of people from the Mon ethnic group. A little needs to be said about the history prior to the Sukhothai period in Thailand. And this refers to the Dwaravati period, which included a conglomeration of small and big settlements along both banks of the Upper Chao Phraya valley during the 6th – 13th Century. Like all legendary beginnings the first king of Dwaravati, is said to have established the first city, in the 5th century AD. But what is certain is that by the 10th Century most of these settlements came under the dominance of the Khmer Empire and was controlled from the ancient city of Lavo, identified with modern Lopburi town on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya. The landmark temple of this period, Prang Sam Yot in Lopburi, has striking resemblance to the temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The three Prangs or Gopuras are dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishu, and Shiva.
The Khmer dominance of the Chao Phraya valley was however challenged in the 1239 by the Tai governor of Sukhothai, and declared independence. Very soon Sukhothai grew under the able leadership of King Ramkhamhaeng, details of who are noted from the stone stele inscriptions now housed in the National Museum at Bangkok. There is much debate on the historical details of the origins of Sukhothai among historians. But Thai’s like to frame Sukhothai as their first city-sate of their nation and King Ramkhamhaeng as the nation builder of Thailand. It was during the 13th century that a gradual migration of the Tai people into the Upper Chao Phraya flood plains took place. However Sukhothai soon lost to the growing power and influence of Ayutthaya Kingdom in the South.
Ayutthaya flourished as a world renowned trading centre during the succeeding few centuries. But by the 18th Century, the kingdom began to disintegrate and provincial states began asserting their independence. Petty rivalries weakened the kingdom further. And to make matters worse, Ayutthaya got involved in the war between the Mon rulers and the Burmese along the southern border. The Kingdom supported the Mons, but lost the battle. The victorious Burmese army didn’t stop with the Mons. They charged ahead and invaded Ayutthaya and destroyed the city in 1767 AD. The Thai capital moved further south near Bangkok where it sustained and flourished with wise diplomatic ties with neighboring nations and beyond.
Well, I was not stuck with history alone. Like all tourists, I too did my round of islands and beaches. In fact, Thailand has a way of making you feel at home. Inspite of the obvious racial differences, its the common link in the Oriental threads of traditions, languages, food habits, leisure, and the arts , especially among the South-East Asians that comes to the forefront and envelops you. Maybe that’s why I survived my years in this foreign land.
With an intriguing name like Ayutthaya, the old capital of Thai Kingdom was top on my list. Actually, unlike the lesser known Sukhothai, the first-ever city-sate of Siam nestled in the central plains of Thailand, Ayutthaya is so much `in-your-face’ in Bangkok. It’s basically because of the proximity to the city. It is in fact an easy day trip to the ancient capital. Sukhothai on the other hand is a good 6 hours road trip. Paintings of the Ayutthaya ruins amidst overgrown roots of ficus trees, on fabric and on paper are common souvenirs in Bangkok. But when compared to the millions that throng the amazingly beautiful beaches and islands of Thailand, these UNESCO World Heritage historical parks don’t attract many visitors. I was happy I visited these sites. But honestly the well maintained ruins at Ayutthaya with its manicured lawns and gardens come no where close to the rustic charm of Angkor Wat. But as they say, historical events and monuments should never be compared; both are unique in its respective time and space.
Both these historical parks are well equipped with museums, information centres, guides, rest rooms, and everything that is needed to update and refresh ones body, mind and soul. For that matter, traveling anywhere in Thailand is a tourists delight. It’s actually difficult to `rough-it-out’ in Thailand. You really have to be in the deep interiors of the northern highlands to experience true wilderness. It would seem that the smooth 6 lane highways with refreshment centres at every few kilometers, complete with restaurants, wash rooms and kids play area, runs into all corners of Thailand. Unlike in India, where a cross country National Highway road trip actually weaves through the cultural fabric and the associated hassles of the nation, in Thailand its just smooth roads and convenience kiosks at regular intervals. It is indeed a little disappointing for people looking out for some serious exploration into ethnic life and living in Thailand, without wandering into the deeper darker zones.
Besides, trips and treks would seem to be tailor made for individual tourists in this prime holiday country. One can choose to tramp it out or live royally at the classiest of hotels. As always, I chose the `middle path’; although adequately adventurous, I rarely take risks. I opted to cruise it to Ayutthaya, and it was well worth it. From the jetty at Bangkok, the cruise snakes up the Chao Phraya to the ruins. The cruise starts early morning, complete with welcome drink, delicious breakfast, Thai traditional music and dance performances and a sumptuous lunch spread ready to be devoured on the return journey in the afternoon.
Although Sukhothai is considered as the first city-sate of Thailand, it was the Kingdom at Ayutthaya in the 14th century that unified the farming and trading communities that existed along the Upper Chao Phraya Valley. Prior to this unification, Sukhothai was an emerging city-state under the control of Khmer Empire, consisting mainly of people from the Mon ethnic group. A little needs to be said about the history prior to the Sukhothai period in Thailand. And this refers to the Dwaravati period, which included a conglomeration of small and big settlements along both banks of the Upper Chao Phraya valley during the 6th – 13th Century. Like all legendary beginnings the first king of Dwaravati, is said to have established the first city, in the 5th century AD. But what is certain is that by the 10th Century most of these settlements came under the dominance of the Khmer Empire and was controlled from the ancient city of Lavo, identified with modern Lopburi town on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya. The landmark temple of this period, Prang Sam Yot in Lopburi, has striking resemblance to the temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The three Prangs or Gopuras are dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishu, and Shiva.
The Khmer dominance of the Chao Phraya valley was however challenged in the 1239 by the Tai governor of Sukhothai, and declared independence. Very soon Sukhothai grew under the able leadership of King Ramkhamhaeng, details of who are noted from the stone stele inscriptions now housed in the National Museum at Bangkok. There is much debate on the historical details of the origins of Sukhothai among historians. But Thai’s like to frame Sukhothai as their first city-sate of their nation and King Ramkhamhaeng as the nation builder of Thailand. It was during the 13th century that a gradual migration of the Tai people into the Upper Chao Phraya flood plains took place. However Sukhothai soon lost to the growing power and influence of Ayutthaya Kingdom in the South.
Ayutthaya flourished as a world renowned trading centre during the succeeding few centuries. But by the 18th Century, the kingdom began to disintegrate and provincial states began asserting their independence. Petty rivalries weakened the kingdom further. And to make matters worse, Ayutthaya got involved in the war between the Mon rulers and the Burmese along the southern border. The Kingdom supported the Mons, but lost the battle. The victorious Burmese army didn’t stop with the Mons. They charged ahead and invaded Ayutthaya and destroyed the city in 1767 AD. The Thai capital moved further south near Bangkok where it sustained and flourished with wise diplomatic ties with neighboring nations and beyond.
Well, I was not stuck with history alone. Like all tourists, I too did my round of islands and beaches. In fact, Thailand has a way of making you feel at home. Inspite of the obvious racial differences, its the common link in the Oriental threads of traditions, languages, food habits, leisure, and the arts , especially among the South-East Asians that comes to the forefront and envelops you. Maybe that’s why I survived my years in this foreign land.
Sunday, May 2, 2010
When Gods travel....
So, once again Thailand is going through political unrest. These intermittent periods of turmoil, which also resulted in a series of coups, has been a common feature in the country since the early decades of the Cold War. A period of political stability was attained in the 1980’s. And finally the first Constitution of Thailand was drafted in 1997 and the first ever general elections conducted in 2001. But very soon it was the season for coups once again. So far these periods of political unrest hardly affected the general life in this country of peace loving people. In the 2006 coup, I remember how calm the political `unrest’ was. While everyone outside Thailand worried for their near and near ones in the country as they watched TV screens repeatedly flashing the same brief shots of tanks and the military marching into Bangkok city, the Thai’s in Bangkok were busy taking snapshots standing alongside army tanks and exchanging `peace’ roses with army personnel.
And for an economy thriving on tourism, Thailand is one of the safest places I have experienced. So after my initial few excited starry eyed days at the shopping malls I did the rounds of the heritage monuments located along the two banks of the Chao Phraya River. This included a long list of temples or Wats, as they are known in Thai. But except for Wat Arun, known as Temple of Dawn by the foreign tourist, I found the uniformity among these monuments very boring. Especially, the multitudes of small and big Wats within the vast expanse of the Grand Palace, which is not only the official residence of the King of Thailand, constructed in 1782, but also the venue for all royal ceremonies including coronations and funerals. See one Wat and you have seen them all. They are no doubt very `Grand’, like the very revered Wat dedicated to the Emerald Buddha; each and every structure within the Grand palace is gilded, elaborately decorated and meticulously maintained. But the sameness and relative newness of the monuments failed to enchant the archeologist in me. Instead I enjoyed getting lost in the smells and sights on the busy China town located next to the Palace.
All along my afternoon jaunts to these monuments, what actually tugged my mind was the umbilical cord that connected the cultures of this vast landmass called South East Asia. It may sound a bit pompous but the fact remains that rulers and traders from India had a big role in colonizing these regions. And along with them came our language, culture and traditions. Sanskrit is so neatly woven into the fabric of Thai language. But the pronunciation varies drastically and I found it an interesting exercise deciphering the Sanskrit root of words and names.
Speaking of cultural exchanges, the one most important set of guests that traveled to Suvarnabhoomi were our Hindu gods and goddesses! Thailand is a Buddhist country and follows the Theravada form of Buddhism, which incorporates a lot of Hindu beliefs and traditions, including animism and ancestor worship. Hence, although Wats are predominantly Buddhists, there are also temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma all over Thailand. Wat Arun, for instance, is dedicated to Aruna – the Hindu god of dawn. Like our very own temple gopuras, Wat Arun’s central 80 mt tall Prang or the Khmer style pagoda, symbolizes Mt Meru. Decorated with sea shells and bits of Chinese porcelain, it’s like a blazing tower reflecting the sun rays. Certain sculptural details are also common to all temples. Like the depiction of Nagas or serpents, on doorways, steps, candle stands, and railings surrounding the temple. Huge weapon bearing guardian Dwarapalas are also a must at the entrance to the temple. Hindu religious symbols are the same, except that they are dressed up in Thai traditional costumes and postures.
I was amazed to see the large numbers of devotees thronging the small corner temple at Erawan dedicated to Lord Brahma. Located on the main commercial street in Bangkok, this recent temple located at the site of an older temple is considered very holy. Similarly there are small roadside temples dedicated to Shiva and Ganesh. Most residential and commercial buildings have one or two miniature temples dedicated to Hindu Gods, built in wood or cement at the main entrance or in the Garden.
But even more far reaching is the influence that Indian gods, and related myths and epics have on the culture of South East Asia. Ramayana, for instance, is ingrained in most forms of performing arts, then be it dance-drama, or puppetry. In Thailand, while the main story remains identical to Valmiki’s Ramayana, the attire, including ornamental decoration, masks, and weapons, are typically local to the region. However, there are also interesting variations to the Ramleela performances in Indonesia, Malaysia, Lao, Cambodia, and Sri Lanka. Like the version in Sri Lanka, where Ravana the Asura king of Lanka, is depicted as the noble and just ruler and Rama of Ayodhya is the villain!! One could do extensive research on the diversity in narrative traditions of the Ramayana epic across South East Asia. Even more phenomenal is that most of the Ramayana performers in Indonesia and Malaysia are Muslims! I’ll come to that later. But certainly, when Gods travel across borders, they also become more tolerant and accommodating.
Similarly with festivals. Thai New Year is celebrated on Songkran day in the month of April. The word Songkran is derived from the Sanskrit sankrant, and symbolizes the same phenomenon of the Sun’s movement into the Makar or Aries zodiac; an occasion for Makarsankranti in the month of January in our country. It is believed that in ancient times this solar phenomenon was celebrated on the same day all over Southeast Asia. The next most important festival called the Loy Kratong in November coincides with the Tripurari Kartika Poornima in the month of Kartik on the Hindu calendar. Basically a celebration of the most auspicious full moon night of the twelfth lunar month or the winter solstice in the Christian calendar. Traditional festivals all over the world are rooted in seasonal changes, yet it’s amazing to note these close cultural ties between nations.
And for an economy thriving on tourism, Thailand is one of the safest places I have experienced. So after my initial few excited starry eyed days at the shopping malls I did the rounds of the heritage monuments located along the two banks of the Chao Phraya River. This included a long list of temples or Wats, as they are known in Thai. But except for Wat Arun, known as Temple of Dawn by the foreign tourist, I found the uniformity among these monuments very boring. Especially, the multitudes of small and big Wats within the vast expanse of the Grand Palace, which is not only the official residence of the King of Thailand, constructed in 1782, but also the venue for all royal ceremonies including coronations and funerals. See one Wat and you have seen them all. They are no doubt very `Grand’, like the very revered Wat dedicated to the Emerald Buddha; each and every structure within the Grand palace is gilded, elaborately decorated and meticulously maintained. But the sameness and relative newness of the monuments failed to enchant the archeologist in me. Instead I enjoyed getting lost in the smells and sights on the busy China town located next to the Palace.
All along my afternoon jaunts to these monuments, what actually tugged my mind was the umbilical cord that connected the cultures of this vast landmass called South East Asia. It may sound a bit pompous but the fact remains that rulers and traders from India had a big role in colonizing these regions. And along with them came our language, culture and traditions. Sanskrit is so neatly woven into the fabric of Thai language. But the pronunciation varies drastically and I found it an interesting exercise deciphering the Sanskrit root of words and names.
Speaking of cultural exchanges, the one most important set of guests that traveled to Suvarnabhoomi were our Hindu gods and goddesses! Thailand is a Buddhist country and follows the Theravada form of Buddhism, which incorporates a lot of Hindu beliefs and traditions, including animism and ancestor worship. Hence, although Wats are predominantly Buddhists, there are also temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma all over Thailand. Wat Arun, for instance, is dedicated to Aruna – the Hindu god of dawn. Like our very own temple gopuras, Wat Arun’s central 80 mt tall Prang or the Khmer style pagoda, symbolizes Mt Meru. Decorated with sea shells and bits of Chinese porcelain, it’s like a blazing tower reflecting the sun rays. Certain sculptural details are also common to all temples. Like the depiction of Nagas or serpents, on doorways, steps, candle stands, and railings surrounding the temple. Huge weapon bearing guardian Dwarapalas are also a must at the entrance to the temple. Hindu religious symbols are the same, except that they are dressed up in Thai traditional costumes and postures.
I was amazed to see the large numbers of devotees thronging the small corner temple at Erawan dedicated to Lord Brahma. Located on the main commercial street in Bangkok, this recent temple located at the site of an older temple is considered very holy. Similarly there are small roadside temples dedicated to Shiva and Ganesh. Most residential and commercial buildings have one or two miniature temples dedicated to Hindu Gods, built in wood or cement at the main entrance or in the Garden.
But even more far reaching is the influence that Indian gods, and related myths and epics have on the culture of South East Asia. Ramayana, for instance, is ingrained in most forms of performing arts, then be it dance-drama, or puppetry. In Thailand, while the main story remains identical to Valmiki’s Ramayana, the attire, including ornamental decoration, masks, and weapons, are typically local to the region. However, there are also interesting variations to the Ramleela performances in Indonesia, Malaysia, Lao, Cambodia, and Sri Lanka. Like the version in Sri Lanka, where Ravana the Asura king of Lanka, is depicted as the noble and just ruler and Rama of Ayodhya is the villain!! One could do extensive research on the diversity in narrative traditions of the Ramayana epic across South East Asia. Even more phenomenal is that most of the Ramayana performers in Indonesia and Malaysia are Muslims! I’ll come to that later. But certainly, when Gods travel across borders, they also become more tolerant and accommodating.
Similarly with festivals. Thai New Year is celebrated on Songkran day in the month of April. The word Songkran is derived from the Sanskrit sankrant, and symbolizes the same phenomenon of the Sun’s movement into the Makar or Aries zodiac; an occasion for Makarsankranti in the month of January in our country. It is believed that in ancient times this solar phenomenon was celebrated on the same day all over Southeast Asia. The next most important festival called the Loy Kratong in November coincides with the Tripurari Kartika Poornima in the month of Kartik on the Hindu calendar. Basically a celebration of the most auspicious full moon night of the twelfth lunar month or the winter solstice in the Christian calendar. Traditional festivals all over the world are rooted in seasonal changes, yet it’s amazing to note these close cultural ties between nations.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Siam Sojourns
Siam Sojourns
For a late riser like me, seeing any place in the early morning hours is always a novel experience. So, as a lecturer at a college in Bangkok, when I had no choice but to get up in the wee hours of morning for work, the experience was truly refreshing. Not only were my taxi rides to college a breeze on the otherwise chock-a-block arterial nerve for tourists in Bangkok called Sukhumvit road. But so also were the sights and smells, till then unfamiliar to me of a world popular `shopping and fun’ holiday destination, totally enlightening. The early morning peace and calm mixed with the sweet fragrance of joss sticks is in complete contradiction to the glitter and clamour in the evenings along the same roads. And the presence of Buddhist monks in rust and maroon coloured robes, collecting alms and offering blessings to devotees at street corners lends a special grace to the morning cityscape which is diametrically opposite to the sleazy glamour at the thronging beer parlours and go-go bars along the same by lanes which double up as `cowboy streets’ in the evenings packed with enticing bar girls and preening party `arm-candies`.
Had it not been for my early morning sojourns, I would have completely missed these remnants of Thai cultural essence on the streets of Bangkok. But well, Bangkok is not Thailand. And that can be said for most of the big cities of the world. Modern cities are not representatives of the cultural core of a country or a region. They are rather a by-product of the various processes that took place in recent history. Bangkok, for instance, is not more than 200 years old. An independent Thai capital came to be formed at Sukhothai in northern Thailand in the 13th Century, because of the disintegration of the Khmer empire in Cambodia. But within a century the kingdom at Sukhothai was overthrown by an emerging new Kingdom of Ayutthaya along the banks of the Chao Phraya River, a little further north of Bangkok. Ayutthaya grew as a trading centre, with growing contacts with traders from India, China, Arabia and the European world. But unfortunately the thriving city of Ayutthaya was burnt and ransacked by the invading Burmese army in the latter half of the 18th Century. Subsequently, the capital was moved to Thonburi, now better known as a suburb of Bangkok. The present Era of Thai history began when Bangkok was established as the official capital of Thailand by King Rama I in 1782. This also marked the beginning of the line of Kings belonging to the present reigning Chakri dynasty. It is not only the world’s oldest surviving Monarchy, but the present king is also the longest reigning Monarch.
As a teacher in Thailand, I was in for more surprises. I noticed that my students never stood straight in front of me, but bend gently from one knee. Reverence and respect to ones teacher, then be it an academic or a spiritual preacher, is indeed deeply woven into Thai life. And it is strictly adhered to in schools and junior colleges. These experiences were learning for me. For a tourist in Bangkok, it is a little difficult to imagine that such values exist. Because, what we see, moving on from the polite smiles and graceful `swadhika` greetings of the Thai airhostesses, is an ultra modern airport and city. All it takes is a walk down main Sukhumvit road, with its odd and even numbered streets, or Soi as it’s called in Thai, on either side. And that is if you enjoy jostling and paving a path through crowded sidewalks!! Forget the umpteen numbers of shops lining the streets, but even the pavements are teeming with vendors, selling anything from souvenirs to t-shirts to designer duplicates of everything under the sun.
The enormity of some of the glitzy malls is sometimes staggering even for visitors from downtown Manhattan! But the glamorous Bangkok that we see of today is a very recent transformation. It includes the sky train, the metro, and the fancy malls where one could either spend time buying a Ferrari or visit the huge `ocean world’ created in the basement of one of Asia’s largest shopping complex! And of course the ever mushrooming small and big massage parlours and exotic spas which form the chief attraction at all holiday destinations within Thailand.
I have personally witnessed these rapid developments in the past 7 years. Bangkok is on a demolition spree of all things old and quaint. Every old bungalow, pretty wooden Thai style constructions are being knocked down and replaced with skyscrapers. A few of these get converted into boutique hotels and spas; others are simply broken down for the soaring real estate value of land, especially on prime locations of Bangkok. The constant buzz of construction work is a well know soundscape of the city. It’s strange to note that even during the busiest of traffic hours the roads are quiet with no honking or brakes screeching, thanks to the polite and patient ways of the Buddhist; but the din of construction work in every street cannot be missed.
But the roots of these recent developments go back a little further. Despite the strong western trade relations and cultural influences, which in fact, led to many reforms in the 19th Century, Thailand as a country was never colonised by any western power. Historians attribute it to strong and able leadership by Thai Kings and ministers. Besides, Thailand hasn’t seen a war in the past 200 years. It wasn’t part of WWII even. In fact, Bangkok did well as a peaceful buffer zone between warring nations. Many Indians and Chinese saw this as an opportunity to set up shops selling essentials like food grains, cloth, and shoes to the armies in the neighbouring army camps. These products are the chief exports of Thailand even today. Bangkok rose not just as the business and industrial centre of an agrarian Thailand, but also the `rest and relaxation’ hub of the world; of-late complete with `holiday companions` in all shapes and gender, offering all kinds of services.
I say gender, because honestly, it’s one city which has put me at complete ease with transsexuals. Being the most happening place for all sorts of cosmetic and sex-change surgeries, Bangkok has a large community of transsexuals. Fondly called as `lady boys’, they are an accepted lot with no apparent stigma attached. Employed mostly at restaurants and shopping malls, they are a big hit as night club performers. More on them and the rest of `Amazing Thailand’ later......
For a late riser like me, seeing any place in the early morning hours is always a novel experience. So, as a lecturer at a college in Bangkok, when I had no choice but to get up in the wee hours of morning for work, the experience was truly refreshing. Not only were my taxi rides to college a breeze on the otherwise chock-a-block arterial nerve for tourists in Bangkok called Sukhumvit road. But so also were the sights and smells, till then unfamiliar to me of a world popular `shopping and fun’ holiday destination, totally enlightening. The early morning peace and calm mixed with the sweet fragrance of joss sticks is in complete contradiction to the glitter and clamour in the evenings along the same roads. And the presence of Buddhist monks in rust and maroon coloured robes, collecting alms and offering blessings to devotees at street corners lends a special grace to the morning cityscape which is diametrically opposite to the sleazy glamour at the thronging beer parlours and go-go bars along the same by lanes which double up as `cowboy streets’ in the evenings packed with enticing bar girls and preening party `arm-candies`.
Had it not been for my early morning sojourns, I would have completely missed these remnants of Thai cultural essence on the streets of Bangkok. But well, Bangkok is not Thailand. And that can be said for most of the big cities of the world. Modern cities are not representatives of the cultural core of a country or a region. They are rather a by-product of the various processes that took place in recent history. Bangkok, for instance, is not more than 200 years old. An independent Thai capital came to be formed at Sukhothai in northern Thailand in the 13th Century, because of the disintegration of the Khmer empire in Cambodia. But within a century the kingdom at Sukhothai was overthrown by an emerging new Kingdom of Ayutthaya along the banks of the Chao Phraya River, a little further north of Bangkok. Ayutthaya grew as a trading centre, with growing contacts with traders from India, China, Arabia and the European world. But unfortunately the thriving city of Ayutthaya was burnt and ransacked by the invading Burmese army in the latter half of the 18th Century. Subsequently, the capital was moved to Thonburi, now better known as a suburb of Bangkok. The present Era of Thai history began when Bangkok was established as the official capital of Thailand by King Rama I in 1782. This also marked the beginning of the line of Kings belonging to the present reigning Chakri dynasty. It is not only the world’s oldest surviving Monarchy, but the present king is also the longest reigning Monarch.
As a teacher in Thailand, I was in for more surprises. I noticed that my students never stood straight in front of me, but bend gently from one knee. Reverence and respect to ones teacher, then be it an academic or a spiritual preacher, is indeed deeply woven into Thai life. And it is strictly adhered to in schools and junior colleges. These experiences were learning for me. For a tourist in Bangkok, it is a little difficult to imagine that such values exist. Because, what we see, moving on from the polite smiles and graceful `swadhika` greetings of the Thai airhostesses, is an ultra modern airport and city. All it takes is a walk down main Sukhumvit road, with its odd and even numbered streets, or Soi as it’s called in Thai, on either side. And that is if you enjoy jostling and paving a path through crowded sidewalks!! Forget the umpteen numbers of shops lining the streets, but even the pavements are teeming with vendors, selling anything from souvenirs to t-shirts to designer duplicates of everything under the sun.
The enormity of some of the glitzy malls is sometimes staggering even for visitors from downtown Manhattan! But the glamorous Bangkok that we see of today is a very recent transformation. It includes the sky train, the metro, and the fancy malls where one could either spend time buying a Ferrari or visit the huge `ocean world’ created in the basement of one of Asia’s largest shopping complex! And of course the ever mushrooming small and big massage parlours and exotic spas which form the chief attraction at all holiday destinations within Thailand.
I have personally witnessed these rapid developments in the past 7 years. Bangkok is on a demolition spree of all things old and quaint. Every old bungalow, pretty wooden Thai style constructions are being knocked down and replaced with skyscrapers. A few of these get converted into boutique hotels and spas; others are simply broken down for the soaring real estate value of land, especially on prime locations of Bangkok. The constant buzz of construction work is a well know soundscape of the city. It’s strange to note that even during the busiest of traffic hours the roads are quiet with no honking or brakes screeching, thanks to the polite and patient ways of the Buddhist; but the din of construction work in every street cannot be missed.
But the roots of these recent developments go back a little further. Despite the strong western trade relations and cultural influences, which in fact, led to many reforms in the 19th Century, Thailand as a country was never colonised by any western power. Historians attribute it to strong and able leadership by Thai Kings and ministers. Besides, Thailand hasn’t seen a war in the past 200 years. It wasn’t part of WWII even. In fact, Bangkok did well as a peaceful buffer zone between warring nations. Many Indians and Chinese saw this as an opportunity to set up shops selling essentials like food grains, cloth, and shoes to the armies in the neighbouring army camps. These products are the chief exports of Thailand even today. Bangkok rose not just as the business and industrial centre of an agrarian Thailand, but also the `rest and relaxation’ hub of the world; of-late complete with `holiday companions` in all shapes and gender, offering all kinds of services.
I say gender, because honestly, it’s one city which has put me at complete ease with transsexuals. Being the most happening place for all sorts of cosmetic and sex-change surgeries, Bangkok has a large community of transsexuals. Fondly called as `lady boys’, they are an accepted lot with no apparent stigma attached. Employed mostly at restaurants and shopping malls, they are a big hit as night club performers. More on them and the rest of `Amazing Thailand’ later......
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
The Pepper Empire
The Pepper Empire
There is a huge boulder called Velliamkallu, 10 km into the sea from Payyoli beach near Kozikode. Local lore has it that during the Portuguese rule, murderers and serious law offenders were executed here and thrown off the rock into the sea. A morbid history to an otherwise peaceful beach surrounds. But that’s what the entire stretch of the western coast of India is – a strip of land that attracted traders, travelers and rulers, resulting in not just a tumultuous and fascinating history of activities from ancient times, but also a series of colonization in the 500 years of recent history. The Portuguese led the way and spread their Pepper Empire all around the Indian coast; particularly along the Western coast.
We have, indeed, come a long way from understanding a nation’s growth purely on the basis of its geology and geography but their significance in forming the culture, politics, economics and even language of a region, is still a determining factor. The importance of the Western Coast during the ancient times cannot be ignored. And all it takes is a drive along NH 17, and a few minor detours here and there, to understand and enjoy this.
The Indus valley settlements along the Gujarat coast, and in the Great Rann of Kutch, dating as far back as the 3rd millennium BC have unearthed monumental evidence for long standing maritime contact with Mesopotamia and Egypt. This was followed by a flourish of Greeco Roman trade and settlements, around the turn of the millennium all along the Peninsular coast line . The recent excavations at Patanam, near Kodungallur in Central Kerala have shed further light on this connection. Besides excavations, there are interesting references to the culture and economy of these regions, in the works of Greco Roman geographers, explorers, and political envoys. Dioscorides, the Greek Physician who was a contemporary of Pliny, describes the medicinal virtues of spices like pepper and turmeric from the Western coast in his treatise. The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea has frequent references to Barygaza (Bharuch in Gujarat) and Muziris (identified as the regions around Kodungallur in Central Kerala). All these fascinating references to a far away land must have poked the curiosity of later travelers.
The sea trade route began at the Mediterranean coast, crossing over the Nile delta, into the Red sea, and out into the Arabian Sea at the Gulf of Aden onto the Indian shores. But in 45AD the discovery of the existing monsoon winds enabled a straight sail from Aden to Muziris; thus avoiding skirting along the Arab coast. Port towns of Bharuch, Nala sopara, and Kalyan north of Bombay, and many smaller centres further south remained active well into the historic period.
But the arrival of one man changed the cultural landscape of the entire western coast of India. Its effects linger on. Not just in nooks and crannies, but entire cities and states of Peninsular India. The man - Vasco de Gama from Portugal. Improved navigational skills and techniques facilitated direct sailing across the Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean. It eliminated the perils of close encounters with pirates and hard to pass middle men along the narrow Red sea. So saddled with an excellent knowledge of the African coastline, Vasco set sail to India from Lisbon in 1497, decidedly to explore a new sea route which would break the monopoly of the Venetian merchants over sea trade. He sailed around the Cape of Good Hope and into the Arabian Sea and reached the port town of Calicut in Kerala in May 1498. Vasco literally fulfilled the dream of Portuguese explorer Bartholomew Dias, who had explored the route upto South Africa. Although not welcomed initially in Calicut, his subsequent voyage to Kerala coast with a fleet of warships saw a warm welcome at Cochin and later again at Calicut in 1502. Thus the Portuguese became the first to colonize along the Indian shores. They established the first European trading centre at Quilon in 1502. Although items of trade included cottons, silks, indigo, incense, precious stones and various other indigenous product, Indian spices were the most coveted items of trade.
Within a few years a headquarters was set up in Goa, although trade continued to be managed from Kozhikode, Kochi, and Kollam ports in Kerala. Slowly and steadily the Pepper Empire grew. Provinces north of Goa were managed from Bassein (modern Vasai, near Bombay). From the western most outpost at the island of Diu in Gujarat, the Empire followed a steady trail along the Western coast at Daman, Vasai, Bombay, Chaul, Goa, Honavar, Basrur, Mangalore, Calicut, Cannanore, Cochin and Quilon. This trail continues along the Coromandle coast from Tuticorin, all the way upto Hoogly in modern Bengal.
Following this coastal trail by road, beginning at the amazing fort and cathedral at the island of Diu in Gujarat, upto Fort Kochi in Kerala, is like surfing through the high and low waves of Portuguese heritage in India. What is obviously visible to the eye is the well preserved monuments; particularly the Bom Jesus World Heritage monument complex in Goa or the St. Angelo’s fort at Kannur, Kerala. But for the ardent history buffs, the dilapidated remains of once glorious monuments at smaller centre like Chaul, in Maharashtra can also tell a tale.
What we often forget is the distinct cultural ethos that these trade contacts and colonization’s give to the entire region. The 400 years of Portuguese rule is still alive at these towns, in its architecture, language, food and the inimitable `indigenous’ catholic flavor to the very being of states like Goa. The road side Cupolas along the streets is a unique cultural symbol all along these settlements. The urgency with which the colonizers enforced the supremacy of the Roman Catholic Church on the locals in a series of bloody inquisition all across the coast can be sensed in the prisons and gallows at the spooky fortified abandoned `ghost’ towns at all the Portuguese strongholds.
The introduction of food preserves like vinegar, techniques of baking, or the acceptance of pork as a meat consumed by the civilized may be minor aspects of the assimilation process. But direct trade with the vast western market had far reaching impact on the coastal economy. It led to commercial cultivation of home garden spices like pepper and ginger, improved techniques for coconut plantations and it’s by product, and many such experiments. But the introduction of `outward looking’ houses with balconies to `see and be seen’ and large windows, is my favorite. Certainly in stark contrast to the prevalent closed structures of the times, with rooms opening to a central courtyard.
There is a huge boulder called Velliamkallu, 10 km into the sea from Payyoli beach near Kozikode. Local lore has it that during the Portuguese rule, murderers and serious law offenders were executed here and thrown off the rock into the sea. A morbid history to an otherwise peaceful beach surrounds. But that’s what the entire stretch of the western coast of India is – a strip of land that attracted traders, travelers and rulers, resulting in not just a tumultuous and fascinating history of activities from ancient times, but also a series of colonization in the 500 years of recent history. The Portuguese led the way and spread their Pepper Empire all around the Indian coast; particularly along the Western coast.
We have, indeed, come a long way from understanding a nation’s growth purely on the basis of its geology and geography but their significance in forming the culture, politics, economics and even language of a region, is still a determining factor. The importance of the Western Coast during the ancient times cannot be ignored. And all it takes is a drive along NH 17, and a few minor detours here and there, to understand and enjoy this.
The Indus valley settlements along the Gujarat coast, and in the Great Rann of Kutch, dating as far back as the 3rd millennium BC have unearthed monumental evidence for long standing maritime contact with Mesopotamia and Egypt. This was followed by a flourish of Greeco Roman trade and settlements, around the turn of the millennium all along the Peninsular coast line . The recent excavations at Patanam, near Kodungallur in Central Kerala have shed further light on this connection. Besides excavations, there are interesting references to the culture and economy of these regions, in the works of Greco Roman geographers, explorers, and political envoys. Dioscorides, the Greek Physician who was a contemporary of Pliny, describes the medicinal virtues of spices like pepper and turmeric from the Western coast in his treatise. The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea has frequent references to Barygaza (Bharuch in Gujarat) and Muziris (identified as the regions around Kodungallur in Central Kerala). All these fascinating references to a far away land must have poked the curiosity of later travelers.
The sea trade route began at the Mediterranean coast, crossing over the Nile delta, into the Red sea, and out into the Arabian Sea at the Gulf of Aden onto the Indian shores. But in 45AD the discovery of the existing monsoon winds enabled a straight sail from Aden to Muziris; thus avoiding skirting along the Arab coast. Port towns of Bharuch, Nala sopara, and Kalyan north of Bombay, and many smaller centres further south remained active well into the historic period.
But the arrival of one man changed the cultural landscape of the entire western coast of India. Its effects linger on. Not just in nooks and crannies, but entire cities and states of Peninsular India. The man - Vasco de Gama from Portugal. Improved navigational skills and techniques facilitated direct sailing across the Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean. It eliminated the perils of close encounters with pirates and hard to pass middle men along the narrow Red sea. So saddled with an excellent knowledge of the African coastline, Vasco set sail to India from Lisbon in 1497, decidedly to explore a new sea route which would break the monopoly of the Venetian merchants over sea trade. He sailed around the Cape of Good Hope and into the Arabian Sea and reached the port town of Calicut in Kerala in May 1498. Vasco literally fulfilled the dream of Portuguese explorer Bartholomew Dias, who had explored the route upto South Africa. Although not welcomed initially in Calicut, his subsequent voyage to Kerala coast with a fleet of warships saw a warm welcome at Cochin and later again at Calicut in 1502. Thus the Portuguese became the first to colonize along the Indian shores. They established the first European trading centre at Quilon in 1502. Although items of trade included cottons, silks, indigo, incense, precious stones and various other indigenous product, Indian spices were the most coveted items of trade.
Within a few years a headquarters was set up in Goa, although trade continued to be managed from Kozhikode, Kochi, and Kollam ports in Kerala. Slowly and steadily the Pepper Empire grew. Provinces north of Goa were managed from Bassein (modern Vasai, near Bombay). From the western most outpost at the island of Diu in Gujarat, the Empire followed a steady trail along the Western coast at Daman, Vasai, Bombay, Chaul, Goa, Honavar, Basrur, Mangalore, Calicut, Cannanore, Cochin and Quilon. This trail continues along the Coromandle coast from Tuticorin, all the way upto Hoogly in modern Bengal.
Following this coastal trail by road, beginning at the amazing fort and cathedral at the island of Diu in Gujarat, upto Fort Kochi in Kerala, is like surfing through the high and low waves of Portuguese heritage in India. What is obviously visible to the eye is the well preserved monuments; particularly the Bom Jesus World Heritage monument complex in Goa or the St. Angelo’s fort at Kannur, Kerala. But for the ardent history buffs, the dilapidated remains of once glorious monuments at smaller centre like Chaul, in Maharashtra can also tell a tale.
What we often forget is the distinct cultural ethos that these trade contacts and colonization’s give to the entire region. The 400 years of Portuguese rule is still alive at these towns, in its architecture, language, food and the inimitable `indigenous’ catholic flavor to the very being of states like Goa. The road side Cupolas along the streets is a unique cultural symbol all along these settlements. The urgency with which the colonizers enforced the supremacy of the Roman Catholic Church on the locals in a series of bloody inquisition all across the coast can be sensed in the prisons and gallows at the spooky fortified abandoned `ghost’ towns at all the Portuguese strongholds.
The introduction of food preserves like vinegar, techniques of baking, or the acceptance of pork as a meat consumed by the civilized may be minor aspects of the assimilation process. But direct trade with the vast western market had far reaching impact on the coastal economy. It led to commercial cultivation of home garden spices like pepper and ginger, improved techniques for coconut plantations and it’s by product, and many such experiments. But the introduction of `outward looking’ houses with balconies to `see and be seen’ and large windows, is my favorite. Certainly in stark contrast to the prevalent closed structures of the times, with rooms opening to a central courtyard.
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